Day 67 – Adelaide to Melbourne

The day started early as I got up to have an early breakfast at 5, then went back to bed. I rose at 6:40 and packed ARTIE with the tent gear, which I had put out to drain and dry. Then at 7:40 we left. The run out of Adelaide was good, just a bit slow because it was the morning peak. On the run up the hills, there were reduced speed limits because of the previous heavy rain. Once out on the plains the other side, the weather improved and there was little evidence of water damage. We stopped in Coonalpyn, Nhill (for the papers), Horsham (for lunch) and Beaufort. By 5:20 we were back in Hoppers Crossing and I filled ARTIE with diesel and I noted all numbers and signed off on the trip. Around the corner I dropped Lynn off and unloaded her gear and then I went home. I only took what I needed out of ARTIE and then went in to get ready for bed and slip back into normal home life.

Day 66 – Adelaide

Shopping and catching up with a friend.

Day 65 – Adelaide

Very briefly – attended my grandnephew Alex’s second birthday party. A very enjoyable evening.

Day 64 – Parachilna to Adelaide

I woke at 6 and got up at 6:30. I showered (yes, as the advert said, the water was hot, but the taps were up high and I could JUST reach them) and dressed, then had breakfast over in the kitchen – Lynn had just finished hers. The site is the old school and we had the classroom as our kitchen. When I returned, I made the judgement that with the heavy rain and the previous road closures (and possibly more today), we would truncate the trip and head down to Adelaide. So we packed up (packing the gear in rubbish bags as it was wet) and headed down south. Through Hawker, then Quorn, and we called in at Wilmington to see the Puppet Museum. I can thoroughly recommend it as an interest and as a way to spend about an hour at least. I got some hand puppets for the children and then we headed off to Port Augusta for lunch. After lunch we headed down the main road to Adelaide with dark clouds and heavy rain on the horizon. It was a reasonable run down with showers and heavy rain, with only a few periods of dry weather. We arrived in Adelaide around 4:10 and called into Fran’s, where we will stay for a day or two. My grandnephew here (Alex) turns two tomorrow so it turned out circumstances were fortuitous – I have quite a few things for him from travelling. I wonder if he will recognise me as my hair is long and my beard is extremely bushy. We went out to tea at the local pub (cheap schnitzel night) for tea and then came home for an early night in bed.

Day 63 – William Creek to Parachilna

I woke to the alarm at 5:30 only to find the mobile had switched itself to Melbourne time, so it was still only 5. I went back to sleep and then got up at 5:40, woke Lynn and then went to shower and dress. I had a drink and biscuits for breakfast (no camp kitchen with kettle) and soon Lynn was ready too. We drove down to the airport and were ready for 6:45. The other plane was ready and went just before 7, but our other passengers were standing around at the hotel chatting. Finally the pilot got them and we were away by 7:10. I got the co-pilot’s seat again. We headed east, then north-east, going over the south coast and a bay at the southern end of North Lake Eyre. According to the pilot, the deepest point at the moment is about 1.5 metres and the southern end is too salty for any bird life. Apparently the pelicans have started to fly home, even those from Papua New Guinea! We saw ripples in the lake bed, waves on the surface, the current maximum level (marked by vegetation) and the old shoreline when Lake Eyre was permanent and fresh (black staining on rocks). By 8:10 we were in the car back to the campground. Lynn got the washing in, we packed and then we headed off around 8:30 (which now seems a normal time no matter what). We bade William Creek goodbye and headed off roughly east to Marree. The road was very chopped up where water had pooled in some floodways, but everything was passable. We met a lot of vehicles coming the other way. There were many remnants of the old Ghan line, but by now only the bridges were of interest to me. About 30 kilometres out of Marree was “Planehenge”, but the main purpose seemed to be to publicise the local community’s anger at the uranium mining at Roxby Downs. They asked for a donation from visitors; I donated but I didn’t see too many who did. Lynn stayed in the car. We headed on into Marree, where the board proclaimed that the road to William Creek was closed. It didn’t seem that too many people took any notice of it. We had lunch in the café there, looked around town (and even visited the MCG) and then headed down south. A number of times we ran into the lady and her friend who had judged dressage up in the N.T. Parts of the road were sealed to Lyndhurst, but the story was the same – parts of the road badly cut up and some floodways just passable. At Lyndhurst I refuelled with discount diesel (146.9 c/L) and confirmed that the turn-off from Copley was the best way to visit Arkaroola. However, once there, the board proclaimed that the road was closed. I decided to head south, but the weather was becoming overcast, so we stopped in at Parachilna and set up camp there. Very homely, but the showers looked okay and the water was hot AND they had a camp kitchen with a kettle. I had some cups of tea, transferred the photos and wrote up my blog while sitting on real chairs. We got a call from the manager – our tent was blown partially down – on the windward side. The extendable legs collapsed on that side. Just pulling it up cured the problem but I extended the cords on the corners and staked them in. Then the rain started. We had an early night. The rain continued between light, heavy and quite heavy.

Day 62 – Marla to William Creek

I woke to the alarm call of the native wildlife and went for a shower and to dress. I had breakfast, but with no camp kitchen with kettle, I used my little Jetboil to make my cups of tea. Lynn rose and got ready, then we broke camp and were off on the road at about 8:30. The local sign said the road to Oodnadatta was open, but that the road to William Creek and Marree was closed. I set off with a number of options in mind. The road to Oodnadatta was quite good considering the rain it had, but in some places there was still water covering most of the road. However none of those provided any real problem. At Oodnadatta the sign said, “Road Open”! We had an early lunch at the Pink Roadhouse and bought some souvenirs. Surprisingly there was an Optus signal but no Telstra, so I sent out texts on our progress and rang Jason. I tried to ring Barry, but got no answer. We had a look over the Railway Museum, which was comprehensive and informative – it’s locked, but you can get the key from the pub or the roadhouse. On the road to William Creek there was a lot more water, more difficult crossings and a few short detours. There were a lot of reminders of the old Ghan, so I took pictures of some of the remaining bridges. At one of these, there were many mosquitoes, so even though I killed about a hundred or so, many more accompanied me back to the car. Then, at Altebinga, the track to visit the bridge cut through a creek tributary and I had to go into low range and go back and forth a few times to get through. Further along the track we ran into a woman cyclist from Brisbane, doing the track on her own. We spoke to her through the window, driving along beside her for a short time. The roadside scenery varied from flat to undulating, with vegetated hills to “painted” hills, and the cover varied from continuous to sporadic. At some places the ground was covered in gibbers. In many places the rains had washed sand, gravel and small rocks into the floodways, so it was a case of having to decide at each point what path to take and how fast to go through. With just sand, one or more wheels of ARTIE would slow and his direction would alter. With gravel, it was like driving into a blancmange. With rocks, sharp edges could be pointing up, so it was a case of choosing a path carefully. Also, some washaways were quite deep and so the first one was a very rough surprise – but after that I was ready. We got to William Creek about 4:20 – if we chose to go on, we wouldn’t get to Marree until after 7, plus I wouldn’t have a good view of the road. The decision was to take a donga for the night, which was rented out from the pub. The campground had no grass. I unpacked some things, Lynn did the washing and I spoke to a fellow from Geelong, here because the rain had altered his plans. Then we had a light tea (finishing off lunch) and went to bed early.

Day 61 – Yulara to Marla

Well, there were no interruptions to sleep overnight. I awoke at 6 and got up before 6:30 and showered and dressed before 7. I had breakfast and Lynn came down before I finished. I packed ARTIE up and then returned the keys. We were off by about 8:30. I put 50 L of diesel in at the slightly discounted price at Shell. Then we went through Ayers Rock (to see where the company was who picked SUZI up and then couldn’t find SUZI after the accident) and out to the airport. Then we headed east on Lasseter Highway. We stopped at Mt Ebenezer roadhouse and got some souvenirs, then went into Erldunda. Here we had lunch. We then headed south down the Stuart Highway and called into Kulgera. Lynn wasn’t able to get the stubby holder she wanted with the stockman and dog on it, but they had run out. We spent a little time at the border and then went on towards Marla. We booked in at the caravan park – green lawn and a restaurant with reasonably-priced food. We put the tent up and set everything up, then went around for tea – schnitzel for me and mixed grill for Lynn (too much for me). Then we went back and went off to bed. All was well until a school group came in and were very noisy at the same time as I was going to the toilet, so I spoke to some of them. They seemed to settle down after. Throughout the night it was busy at first as many vans pulled in late, and then road trains pulled up for a rest. It was cool overnight.

Day 60 – Yulara to Uluru and return

I woke at 6 but didn’t get up until 6:30. Then it was the usual shower and dress and breakfast. Quiet this morning but I did speak to an Austrian who is working as a chef at a German Club in Dandenong Rd, Prahran. After breakfast I did a little organisation in the car, but after Lynn had her breakfast (and I introduced her to a like-minded Kerry from the Gold Coast) we set off for Uluru. We went through the Cultural Experience there and did a little souvenir shopping. Then we drove around the rock. Although there is the ten kilometre walk around the base, the road is now a lot further away than it was when I was here in 2005 with Fran. Also, areas are marked as culturally significant and it’s requested not to take photos, so there will be a lot less than there were back then. We did walk in at two places and I took photos there, plus at one or two other spots. Then it was back to Yulara (taking quirky photos on the way back – “beware of tuning forks” and “Watch for Wildlife” – I don’t personally think that lizards should wear watches, let alone have them purchased by tourists). We had lunch and then I spent the afternoon doing puzzles from the magazines as I’ll have to post some solutions from here before we go tomorrow. Then I took the shuttle bus over to Town Square to purchase the new puzzle magazines – they were in, so far better than Katherine or Kunanurra. As sunset was soon coming, I went up to the resort lookout and photographed every minute to see if changes are evident. Those pictures won’t be up until I get home. Then it was just something to drink and then off to bed for an early night. The girls requested a room change as they thought they were disturbing us too much (we spoke with them at lunch) so it should be easier to get a full night’s sleep tonight.

Day 59 – Yulara to Docker River and return

The day began before 5 when our roommates got up and eventually left (after a few return visits, just to make sure we hadn’t gone back to sleep). By 6:30 it was too light to stay in so I got up and showered and dressed – Lynn began to do the washing – and then we had breakfast. Just before 9 all the washing was out and we were ready to go so I got the co-ordinates from emails that Spotty left for the accident. I put those into the SatNav and off we went. The first order of business was to purchase three-day passes to Uluru, so we bought those and then headed off towards the Olgas. Along the way a vehicle just pulled out in front of me from the dune-viewing area for the Olgas and then proceeded to remain on the wrong side of the road for a few minutes. Just before the Olgas (if you’ve been there, you’ll know what I mean) we turned off to the west to scout out where SUZI met her demise. Acting on the co-ordinates, I stopped on the side of the road (the SatNav said I should go about 13 metres south), recognised the three trees I stared at for three hours and then saw pieces of SUZI. I collected a few and took some pictures with the same background as those which Nick took at the scene for me. After a little sob moment we headed further down the road and ended up in Docker River for an early lunch. I spoke to two WA policemen who were in there (from Warakuna) about the accident and gave them a card. On the way back we stopped to take some photos (what a surprise), called in to Lasseter’s Cave and I picked up an abandoned registration plate on the road (I wonder if someone found my 1G 2HO on the road between Tobermorey and Jervois?). We were back in Yulara before 4 and Lynn got the washing in, I unwound and then wrote up my blog and transferred the pictures. We had a light tea and were then to bed by about 9, after taking the shuttle bus over to Town Square to buy ice creams. The girls came in later but this time used torches rather than the lights and (to me at least) were a lot quieter.

Day 58 – Kings Canyon Resort to Yulara

I got up at 6:30 and had a shower and dressed, then had breakfast. Lynn was up soon after and had her breakfast, so we started packing after that and were away to Reception before 9, collected the key deposit and then headed off south towards Lasseter Highway. The run was nice and smooth, the road being sealed. The scenery was changing minute by minute. Once on Lasseter Highway, we stopped at Mt Connor Lookout (a crowded and busy spot) and then at Curtain Springs. Motorcycle touring group were there on BMWs and the riders were from Asia. The tone improved when some Suzukis came in and I spoke to them. Then I ran into a fellow who recognised me from Broome! We set off and got into Yulara about 12:50, so I called into the Health Centre and caught up with Leigh (ambulance driver) and Rob (nurse, who prepped me for my operation). Kath, the nurse in the ambulance, had shifted back to Melbourne with her husband, because of his work. I was too late to catch the police, so we went to Pioneer Lodge. Unlike other times, we couldn’t book in until 3, so it was a case of look around to find what facilities were available, where they were and what we could do. I left Lynn to have lunch and I went back to the police station and caught up with Nick and Val. They, like the ambulance officers, remembered the incident very well and were surprised to see me so well. I invited them around for a drink this evening, but some can’t make it until tomorrow or the next evening – but as we’ll be here three nights, that’s OK. I went back and we waited for the room and keys – I got them at 2:50. Lynn and I did some shopping, then came back to the Pioneer Lodge (but as YHA members, we get a considerable cut off the retail cost). Lynn settled in and I went to the lounge and did some emailing and blog writing. I sat in the same place I had just before I set off on my ill-fated trip (and even parked in the same place!).

Day 57 – Kings Canyon

A new day dawned with no other residents in our room. It was very pleasant and quiet compared to caravan parks and hostels we have been in recently. I was up about 6:30, showered, dressed and had some breakfast. Lynn got up later and we then headed off and were at Kings Canyon before 9. We started the walk up before it got too warm, but comparing this trip with last year’s, I can feel the effect of the scarring on my lungs. I got out of breath far more easily and wasn’t able to move quickly enough to get sore muscles. We both made it to the top of the climb and then walked around, including to Colliston’s Lookout but not including the Garden of Eden walk. During the walk, we ran into and chatted with a number of people. Lynn had difficulty around marker 60, so sat and rested. I had a task to do, but had gone past the place where Priscilla sang on the rim in “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert”. I went back quickly and with some assistance completed my task, at Marker 53, to the amusement of many passers-by and a school group from Alphington Grammar. I soon caught up with Lynn and we were down to the carpark by 1:30. After that it was back to Kings Canyon Resort, a snack for lunch and a rest in the afternoon. I chatted with a naturalist/astronomer photographer and lent him a memory card, asking that he post it back once he returned to England and copied the photos onto his computer. We went up to see the sunset and ran into two retired teachers from Tasmania who had helped on my task. After that, it was a light snack for tea and an early night.

Day 56 – Alice Springs to Kings Canyon Resort

I was awake at 6:15 with Louis’ alarm ringing and ringing – he slept through it but no-one else did. It was the time I wanted to rise, so I was up, showered and dressed. I moved ARTIE into the public parking area and then had breakfast. Lynn was also up, so I put some things into the car and then packed my stuff up. I went around to the Visitor Information Centre and got the pass for the Mereenie Loop ($5). Back at the YHA all was finished, so I said goodbye and returned the key card. We set off – but only around the corner to “Mad Harry’s”, where I did a little shopping for things I can’t get elsewhere in the country (including soft combs, necessary because of my thin or absent hair). Then it was around to Woolworths to do a little shopping and we were off. The first part of the drive was over familiar territory, as it was out to the gorges. As we neared the Namitjira monument, I spied my first brumby (almost at the same place I had first seen some ten years ago). He stayed still while I got close enough to take some good shots. We continued on to then arrive at Hermannsburg around 10:45. We had a good look over the historic precinct and even had scones with jam and cream there. It was getting on towards 1 when we finally left. Then we went off to Gosse Bluff and saw the remains of a meteorite crater. Finally we were back on the road (variously called the Mereenie Loop or Larapinta Drive) heading towards Kings Canyon. We saw at least two more groups of brumbies plus some very good scenery. Not long after stopping at a lookout the road became sealed again for the past ten kilometres into Kings Canyon Resort. We booked in, were allocated our room (2) and went down to unpack and settle in. After a cup of tea we went up to the sunset viewing area and saw the change in colour of the ranges as the sun set. I chatted briefly with a couple from Anglesea (he was in Lions – first and third Mondays of the month meetings) and a couple from near Gosford. After the sun set we went back to the room, had tea and I wrote up my blog and transferred the photos from today over and made room on the card for the photos tomorrow. I also did some puzzles out of the new magazines. Finally I went to sleep.

Day 55 – Alice Springs

Today dawned and I was up at 6:30. In the dorm I am in, there is only a skylight to indicate day, so I am slower to react than in the tent. After showering and dressing, I had breakfast and prepared myself to go out – I moved ARTIE around to public parking and then sorted out a few things. Just before 9 I headed off to the Flynn Memorial UC church – a long walk of around a few hundred metres. I entered as the musicians were practising. A lady from Sydney sat beside me and we spoke. I introduced myself to the minister, who remembered giving me communion in hospital and was happy to see me so well. He invited me to speak during the announcements (I should have warned him how long I can talk for). Then Jenny turned up, so we spoke a little and then the service started. I spoke but limited my time to a few minutes (for which everyone was grateful). After the service we had morning tea in Adelaide House. After a time I said goodbye to Jenny and excused myself. Just after I left I ran into Lynn who was returning from shopping. Back at the YHA Lynn prepared some lunch to take and I sorted out a few things with the car. We headed off and arrived at Serpentine Gorge and had our lunch and then spoke to a local who was walking the Larapinta Train in stages and was waiting for her ride home. We found out details on the current state of the Hermannsburg Mission area (the local community is now about 2000). Then we walked to Serpentine Gorge (very nice) and returned. We drove to Ellery Creek Big Hole and then walked down to see that – it was much bigger than I remembered (probably not dried out as much). There were a few foolhardy people (jumping in, ignoring the signs about no jumping – the risk of heat attack due to sudden hypothermia is high and people have died in the past). Then it was back into ARTIE and a drive back to Alice Springs, noting the alterations to the advisory signs – kangaroos skiing, horses with top hats and six legs, children wearing witch’s hats and glasses – and then being disappointed when the alterations stopped near to the town. I went to Woolworths Caltex to fill up – just under 170 litres and $215.20. We had tea at Hungry Jacks (no chance after this until Adelaide) and returned to the YHA. Here we booked for Kings Canyon (tomorrow night and the night after) and Ayers Rock (the following three nights). I did some more blog writing, chatted to a few people (including a young lady from the Netherlands [Arnhem]– who agreed their cycle and motoring arrangements are better than ours) and then went to bed. Our dorm is full again!

Day 54 – Alice Springs

I woke at 6:25, had my shower, dressed in “good” clothes and then had breakfast. Lynn got up later and started to do the washing. I headed off to post my magazine entries to Kerry after putting ARTIE in the public parking area, but along the way met a chap, Chris, who also wanted the post office. I walked him to there, then did some shopping at Jaycar and Mad Harry’s. I called into the Caltex Woolworths servo but found they didn’t stock magazines, so no discount for me when I fill up later. I got back to the YHA and chatted with Lynn and then with a Danish couple (who knew where Herning was!). At 12:15 we walked down to Piccolo’s where we had lunch with Fred and Mrs Fred (actually Lyn also). Fred was the person who visited me in hospital and also took me down to the bus station after I was discharged from hospital. It was a very enjoyable time. Then Lynn and I went out to Glen Helen gorge, Ormiston Gorge and the ochre pits. By then it was getting dark, so I drove back into the YHA – we’ll visit Serpentine gorge and Ellery Creek Big Hole tomorrow after I’ve been to church and caught up with Daphne’s friend Jenny. We had tea and chatted to a couple of German girls from Bad Kreuznach who will soon be driving up the east coast of Australia before going home after three months here. After writing up my blog, I posted it and finally went to bed.

Day 53 – Alice Springs

The Chinese curse may be “May you live in interesting times”, but for me it proved to be a blessing. After being woken by a roommate rising and cursing him because the mobile showed it was 4:38, I checked my watch and it was actually 6:08. I rose, had a shower and dressed and then had breakfast. Lynn was up soon after and had breakfast and we were soon off. The trek to the Visitor Information Centre was all of a few moments and about 50 metres, so I found out where I could obtain a permit for travelling the road to locate where I came to grief (Central Lands Council), a permit for the Mereenie Loop (there, on the day it was required or the day before) and I found out the Tanami Track was closed – then open, as it was posted just as the desk operator enquired. We did a little exploratory walk around the CBD and during this, I ran across the local police superintendent who assured me the two police I would like to thank personally were still stationed there. Then we set off to the Central Lands Council and got the permit and asked about Raymond, who I had been in hospital with. The girl on the desk couldn’t help, but her father, standing just behind me, knew him and gave me a community he was living in. He assured me it wasn’t a closed community and I could just go in and ask. We headed off there, and ran into Jaycar (which I thought had gone, as it wasn’t in its original location) and Lynn was able to get something I had shown her for charging four devices at once through USBs. She even got a senior’s discount (I don’t get that at home!). Then we located the community Raymond was supposed to be on, but couldn’t find him. We went out to Emily and Jesse Gap and I decided to head off to the RFDS then before doing anything else, and the people there recognised me. After the tour, I bought some T-shirts for Abby, Alex and Ted and found myself next to Sharon, the nurse who had come out to Yulara to help with my operation and then had visited me in hospital. We had lunch at Hungry Jacks and then it was back to the Central Lands Council to leave a card for the father of the girl on the desk to get in touch with Ray. Then we called in at the hospital, but I had less luck there. We went out to Flynn’s grave, then Simpson’s Gap (no rock wallabies) and finally back to the hostel. After unpacking more and having tea, I finished the puzzles, wrote up my blog, spoke to others and finally went to bed.

Day 52 – Elliot to Alice Springs

The timing of dawn meant that I didn’t wake until 6:30. Then it was up, shower, dress and pack up, hitting the road not long after 7:30. We stopped at Renner Springs for breakfast, then drove on through some showers and skies filled with ominous clouds. I stopped at the John Flynn monument near Three Ways, drove slowly through Tennant Creek, stopped at Wauchope (home of the UFOs), called in at Barrow Creek, stopped at Ti Tree, took photos at the Tropic of Capricorn and the highest point on the track (“It’s all downhill from here!”) and arrived in Alice Springs about 6. We stopped in at the YHA to book in and unpack (and were able to park in the staff spot next to the courtyard). We walked down towards Hungry Jacks, but the allure of $10 schnitzels at the Todd Tavern was too much, so we had tea there. On the way back we did some shopping at Woolworths and then got back to the hostel in time to retire to bed and try to get an early night. Unfortunately one tenant was having a tiff with his girlfriend back home, and with him yelling and her yelling (she was on speakerphone) I got up to tell him to move away and quieten down. He did and I went off to sleep. Unfortunately on my first waking, my iPod slipped done the side of the bed, landing on the floor under Lynn’s bed (I’m in the top bunk). So noises kept me awake a lot of the night (snoring, breathing, etc.).

Day 51 – Timber Creek to Elliot

No rain – and nearly everything was dry! After showering, dressing and having breakfast, we cleaned the rubbish off everything and were able to pack them back in their original containers. However, because of the time change and the length of the previous day, our leaving was at after 9, not at the usual around 8. It was different looking at features from the other direction, so there was still plenty to see. We stopped in Katherine about noon to shop, refuel (and wash ARTIE) and have a quick lunch at McDonalds (I didn’t want to lose any time). Then we were off and down the track, finally pulling up in Elliot to find a caravan park. Once the tent was up, we had a quick drink and snack and looked around the town, which was taken over by fruit bats! We thought about having tea at the pub, but that was decided by them not doing meals (despite a board being up). Back at the park we finished off our mixed grills, had an ice cream, I did my blog and recharged the computer and then it was off to bed.

Day 50 – Fitzroy Crossing to Timber Creek

The first sound when I woke was the loud sound of rain thrumming on the tent fly. The tent is waterproof (now proven) but we are not. After a shower, I drove down the street to get rubbish bags to put the wet tent in (if we decided to move on today) and then drove us over to the camp kitchen where we had breakfast and considered whether the Tanami Track would be open – I thought closed, given the weather radar overnight and now. Eventually Lynn noticed a break in the weather so we went back to break camp. It started raining before we finished packing up, but it was all inside and not too bad. We drove off on the Great Northern Highway to the accompaniment of heavy rain. Just before Halls Creek I saw the “ROAD CLOSED” sign on the Tanami Track, so the decision was out of my hands. We stopped in Halls Creek (sausage rolls were the only alternative available) and found ourselves sitting next to a family in the same predicament. As the trip from Fitzroy Crossing to Alice Springs had changed from 1600 km to 2400 km, it meant three long travel days. So the end point for today ended up at Timber Creek (6:40 WA time, but 8:10 NT time). While I didn’t like doing it, there was about two hours driving in the dark. At Timber Creek all was closed, so we found a spot and set the tent up. No rain, but in the dark it’s not as easy as during daylight. Just a light snack and drink and we were into bed and asleep.

Day 49 – Fitzroy Crossing

After a promising beginning (up for shower and cups of tea and breakfast in the camp kitchen), the day did not progress well. Firstly, after getting down to the Visitor Information Centre at 8:30 to get queries promptly answered and the day organised, it didn’t open until 9 (staff meeting on). I enquired about my book which I left there (a donation to their library in May 2012) but no record could be located (there had been break-ins and damage done as well as books stolen). I asked about the Indigenous boat tours in Geike gorge – not unless there were at least three, and no-one else had even enquired. I asked about the cave tours at Mimbi (too late today) but they were not doing them tomorrow. There is no booking for the DPaW tours – just turn up beforehand – but the afternoon ones were cancelled yesterday because of the heat. Things were unsatisfactory on all counts! However we did talk with a relative of the Krakouers (AFL Footballers) and some French tourists who were amazed where I had visited in France. We looked over the supermarket (doing a little shopping) and then drove out to the gorge – all was as I remembered it. After looking around we headed back into town, going via the old crossing (which I couldn’t find) and accidentally came across a wedge-tailed eagle sitting in a tree. After getting to some good photos, the eagle then flew away when I wanted to get ultra-close-up. We had lunch back at the tent and then did some 4WDing on our return to the gorge. There was no 2:30 DPaW tour advertised, but when we asked, it was on. Eventually they altered the sign to suit, as there were a few who would have driven away and come back at 4. We headed out on the tour together with about 14 others, but having done both tours now I would give the DPaW tour a guarded OK but the Indigenous tour an enthusiastic thumbs-up. During the tour it started to rain – an ominous sign. By the time we got back to the park, the rain was on and off. I helped one chap with erecting his waterproof over his ute tray and then another with undoing a bolt and nut which had held his spare on the caravan (the frame had broken). The rain then set in (although I hoped it would stop before the evening) and we headed down to the BP Roadhouse for tea – a mixed grill which was very nice and certainly value for money. Back at the tent it was was obvious the rain had set in, so we went to bed and crossed fingers it would stop well before the morning. During two comfort breaks overnight there was little precipitation, so I hoped.

Musings

I take quite a few photos but not too many of the countryside. The reason is that it changes so frequently and in so many ways I’d be forever stopping. Since Cairns the landscape has been savannah (hence the Savannah Way), but it has varied in the density, type and coverage of trees and grasses. It is necessary to keep an eye out as the changes can be over only a few hundred metres or extending for kilometres at a time. Driving is interesting. On sealed roads I try to keep to a maximum of 100 km/h as ARTIE, in common with all four-wheel-drive vehicles, is both inherently unstable and top-heavy. Passing trucks or towing cars I occasionally exceed this, but drop back in speed once I pull in. On unsealed roads I try to not exceed 80 km/h, but it is VERY interesting to see some four-wheel-drives overtake me – with or without trailers. I wish I had the dashcam set up so drivers could see the rear end of their vehicle bouncing around and often not keeping in contact with the road surface for many metres at a time! With trailers it’s even worse, as the trailer pulls the rear end of the towing vehicle around and where it points when it lands can be anyone’s guess – and it is rare for it to be in the direction of travel. We’ve seen a number of vehicles burned out or wrecked by the roadside, often on straight stretches of road, and I can see why. Also, the number of tyre carcasses (even with wheels still in them) is amazing, given that the roads are not that bad. In passing me, few drivers slow down and even fewer move completely to the left so that dust and stones are minimised (I now have a lot more stone chips from other vehicles throwing them up). And the comments on roads seem to illustrate that few drivers understand the nature of unsealed roads and even fewer learnt to drive on them – “atrocious” describes a few corrugations and “patches where it’s hard to retain control” describes sandy sections. Caravan parks are also interesting – fees have varied from $5 a night (Timber Creek) to the equivalent of $50 a night (El Questro) for the two of us. In general it has been around $15 each per night. Camp kitchens vary from a sink (cold water only) to stoves, microwaves, fridges, toasters, jugs and sandwich toasters. The variety of facilities is not related to cost! The one eye-opener has been showers – many are outfitted by the same company and they have a 150 mm clearance from the floor to the bottom of the wall. Consequently, a person in the next shower, with the shower running, reflects water up into a shower and wets the floor and even the shelves where clothes could otherwise be kept. If I’ve walked in with boots on, the whole floor then becomes muddy from the dust getting wet continually. To me, it’s poor design. As I need to dry my feet well and keep them clean, I have to devise strategies to overcome this (I have). Roadhouses and stores are also interesting. As a matter of principle I like to call into most and spend some money, as if they don’t make a profit, they may not remain open and be there when I or others need them. Some charge disproportionately while others, very remote and very small, charge very little different to cities. Some also have a diverse range of unique souvenirs, while others simply stock generic souvenirs. Where Woolworths and/or Coles are, the prices at all places are generally lower. Response to my pictures on ARTIE has been a lot better in rural areas than city areas. A few think I work for the RFDS and some ask if the picture was posed. Most are sympathetic to the RFDS and many already contribute. I haven’t got emails saying people have contributed to my Everyday Hero page, but I hope some will eventually. There are many families on the road – frequently away for months or years at a time. Some seek work along the way to finance their travels while some just eke out the money they put aside. Those with children usually run out of funds first, and miss out on attractions where a tour is the only way to see sights. When costs are $750 per adult and nearly $600 per child for a day, it would be hard to justify that expense when it would allow perhaps another month on the road. I am surprised at the number of grey nomads who will not pay a fee of a few dollars, seeking ways around it, yet have rigs which cost the other side of $200 000 not including the vehicle! But some backpackers (not all) have found ways to circumvent any security or anti-theft measures set up by councils, parks or attractions. Visitor Information Centres are so variable in quality – size is not a guide. With friendly staff, a wide display of information and pamphlets and souvenirs, both unique and varying in price, some centres are a pleasure to visit. Others lack information, space or friendly staff who know their area or are just resellers for local businesses. Attractions vary in value. Some cost a lot but give little (including thrills, pleasure and value for money) while others give back good value for money.

Day 48 – Broome to Fitzroy Crossing

This morning I was awake at 5:45 – not because of the anticipation of the day’s travels, but because one of our room was again back in and looking at his mobile with the brightness turned full up. Just before 6 I headed off for my shower, returning to dress and pack. Then I had breakfast, but again I didn’t want to leave too early because I would be driving into the rising sun. I did some puzzles, returned all the gear and we left just after 8. I filled up with diesel at Woolworths and then we headed out on the road. We stopped at the Roebuck Roadhouse (yet more souvenirs) and then at Willare (no more souvenirs there!). We travelled on through the drying landscape and arrived at Fitzroy Crossing just after 1. There was a new roadhouse open but otherwise it was similar to when I visited in 2012. We went over the Fitzroy River and booked into the Fitzroy Lodge Caravan Park. We selected an area with grass (a rarity) and shade (not too common). The tent now takes about 20 minutes from stopping to walking away (tarp down, tent up, fly on, pegs in, air mattresses in and all clothing and bedding placed). A quick exploration and a drink before sitting down for a few minutes, then Lynn went off to do the washing and I went down to the river for a few photos. I also found out the answer to a query about planting boab tree seeds. Then it was another drink and a sit-down after passing on some experience about the Gibb River Road and Tunnel Creek. I was surprised to find reception, so sent out a text and then got the laptop out and did today’s blog. Today is the first day when we are actually heading towards home. Although it’s still around 5000 kilometres to go, we’re not heading away from home which we had done for the first 47 days of this trip. After something light for tea, it was into bed and off to sleep.