Day 21 – Normanton

I arose refreshed and ready to face the day – Lynn apparently was not. Dogs and snorers had kept her awake. I had my shower (it did take over ten minutes to get hot water – it’s artesian) but Lynn only had a partial shower – too cold. We had some breakfast – toast and tea for me – and Lynn did the washing and hung it out after breakfast. We headed down to the railway station and found a long queue. There was enough room for everyone, fortunately. We sat in the middle carriage on the way down to Critter’s Camp and in the driving car, immediately behind the driver, on the way back. The line is set on pressed or forged steel sleepers which are placed directly on the ground, to minimise flood damage. The motive power is a Gardiner six cylinder diesel driven through a crash four-speed gearbox. We left at 8:30 and arrived there about 9:15. The entire first carriage then got onto a bus for their tour and the rest of us returned. I asked station staff and found out where to get the magazines – so went down and got them. Then we were off to Karumba – a pleasant drive of around 50 minutes. We got pies for lunch, then investigated the Visitors’ Centre – and had a chat about how to make the region look more attractive to visitors. We went out to the point, met a couple there who we had met at Cubbold Gorge and took some photos. Then we drove back through the town and looked at places of interest – there were quite a few of them. I took some photos and looked at MMG – an Australian-Chinese mid-tier base metal mining company. We drove back to Normanton and I tried to ring Katherine Toyota – no luck. I tried a panel beaters – no luck. The Visitor Information Centre found out it was a holiday in Katherine – just my luck! Then I tried to book in at Adel’s Grove – no reply! Bad luck is mine today. We went to a store and Lynn shopped and I filled ARTIE with fuel – at 139 ¢ per litre, the dearest yet. We returned to the park and while Lynn got the washing in, I tried to connect to the Internet – no luck with my Aldi mobile, so I had to use my Optus (aghh, the cost!). Then I tried to connect to the census (the park owner knew nothing yet) and was told I couldn’t, and should ring. I rang and got told the lines were busy and then I got hung up on. Eventually I got through to the website and found - Staying in other accommodation For those staying at an accommodation service such as a hotel, serviced apartment, hostel or caravan park, your accommodation service provider will give you a form when you arrive. Travelling in remote areas Special Field Officers will be found at certain locations in remote areas such as truck stops and caravan parks. They will provide you with a Census form or information on how to complete the Census online. If you are travelling and staying in remote parts of Australia on Census night, and do not receive a Census form from a dedicated pick-up location, please contact the Census Inquiry Service (http://help.census.abs.gov.au/help/popquestions?gclid=CjwKEAjww_a8BRDB-O-OqZb_vRASJAA9yrc5JUTpKbSonp1Rdw_dUCb3S6hvq7i9AOplzlNA-NXUXBoCuzfw_wcB#backto). So we don’t have to worry – it would have been good if people knew. I had to put the laptop on to charge as it was down to 10%. As it was charging in the kitchen, I had to take it off once we were going to bed.

Day 20 – Cobbold to Normanton

I got up at 6:20 as there was enough light to see and showered and dressed. Then we had breakfast at the barbecue centre just up from the camp kitchen. We packed up at a leisurely rate as I didn’t want to leave too early – before 8:30 and the sun would be in my eyes driving. So not long after 8:30 we were off and had a good drive into Forsayth – I photographed some cattle and some signs to others may appreciate what it actually is. The road from Forsayth to Georgetown is partly sealed and the unsealed section again was not too bad. Then we were up to Georgetown, where the southern town entrance has a beautiful lookout and garden, together with a mural on the water tank. We drove through Georgetown, but there was no immediate appeal so we pressed on to Croydon. We pulled in at the Information Centre, had a look and watched a short film about the history of the area (alas, spoiled for me as some tourists brought their dog in with them and I quickly had shortness of breath). We did a quick drive around the historic precinct (worthy of at least another visit), tried the pub for lunch (no meals during the day on Sundays) and ended up having chips at the café. At the same time I booked the trip on the GulfLander to Critters’ Corner. Then it was on to Normanton and Lynn had to look out for the stop at Critters’ Corner – it is about 30 km by road from Normanton. When we arrived at Normanton (about 3), plan A was the Tourist Park, plan B was another park in town (there are two others), plan C was to go back to Leichhart Lagoon and plan D was to go back to Croydon (if there was no other accommodation available). As it turned out, there was room at the inn, so we selected a shady spot and set up the tent. Then we did a quick drive around, looked at the town (nothing much open), found a shady spot on the old road, but now pedestrian, bridge and then went back to town. Lynn wanted to do a pub crawl, so we started with the Albion. Our drinks there were accompanied by a singer and guitarist. Then Lynn hit the Purple Pub while I got some drinks at the supermarket. After that we had some time with Krys – Lynn with her head in its mouth (I need to get one with me). Back at the park I returned some calls and Lynn returned some of hers and the temperature gradually cooled from the 32°C it was during the day. We had some tea and then were to bed by about 8:20.

Day 19 – Cobbold

Snoring – I think the world championship for the loudest snorers goes to those around us. It was a co-ordinated symphony, with one taking up in the gap(s) left by the others. Even the iPod had to be at a high volume to drown them out, but as I’m listening to audio books, the pauses were all punctuated by snores or other loud sleeping sounds. Finally we were up by before 7, showered, dressed, had a leisurely breakfast and were then well and truly ready at 9:30 for the 10 tour. A family travelling together (13 – grandparents and two sibling families) took one bus and the rest of us took the other. Our group split into two and ours was the first to traverse the gorge. I was very interesting, with a different patter to last time and at least two crocs visible, one of which I was able to photograph. We had a view of the tourists in the first group, up the top. Then we walked and got a similar spiel to last time, but more on the aboriginal and European history and less of the geological history. Lynn walked all except the last section. Part of the way I chatted to the husband of a café owner from Ingham about promoting towns. We got back to the centre about 1:15, had a light lunch and Lynn eventually went for a swim – I chatted to a pie maker (retired) whose brother agists cattle on Robin Hood Station, from which Cobbold Gorge is taken. Returning to our camp, we found the couple from Orange were now our neighbours. We spent a little more time at the café, which in reality is the social centre and also bought some souvenirs. I showed Lynn where I had stayed when visiting on SUZI. Then later we went back to have an early tea and finally got to bed by 7:30, hoping we could sleep because most of the snorers had left – but alas, their places were taken by even more ardent noisemakers! I retaliated by turning up my iPod, but with the volume up I flattened it by 4 a.m., so the last two hours were spent listening to a louder and more orchestrated snoring performance.

Day 18 – Undara to Cobbold

We were up at just after dawn – our usual time now – and showered, dressed, had breakfast, packed everything up and said farewell to Warren and Joy (who had been behind us) and the family from Bendigo who had been beside us. We left the park at not long after 8 and headed west along the Gilf Development Road. We turned south along the turnoff to Einasleigh and were straight away onto unsealed roads with many creek crossings and quite a few corrugations. All was well as I tackled it at around 60 km/h, slowing for the crossings (no water). About 20 minutes into it, I ran across a tourist minibus (20 seater) stopped in the middle of the road. I went around him, but a few minutes later he caught up to me, witht eh rear end of the bus (and presumably the passengers) bouncing around quite a bit. I pulled over to let him pass and then matched my speed to his so I didn’t get much dust. About 9:50 we got to Einasleigh and went straight to Copperfield Gorge (a mere minute’s drive away from the pub). I walked a bit up and down the gorge and Lynn meditated for a time. I met and chatted to a retired couple from Orange (NSW) about the geology of the gorge. We compared travelling noted and our time at Cobbold would overlap. Lynn had met a lady staying at the pub who was catching the Savannahlander back to Cairns (via Chillago). That day she was travelling to Mount Surprise to stay at the Bedrock Caravan Park. We Had a drink (sarsaparilla for me) at the pub and headed off. Just as we were leaving Einasleigh, we saw the Savannahlander in the distance so stopped to take photos (everyone waved). The pub was supplying 66 lunches (later revised to 72 by someone we met at Cubbold). Then we were off to Forsayth, following parts of the train tracks. Some of the road was unsealed but it was generally it good condition. At Forsayth we had lunch at the pub (just cheese and ham toasted sandwiches) and chatted to a couple whose husband had just been treated by the nurses at the Health Centre there for an eye problem. We then headed off to Cobbold gorge and arrived around 2. I booked in and paid for the campsite and the tour – and found Kellie at the desk remembered me – not too many older people riding motorbikes come through there. We set the tent up (getting used to it now) and commented that it was filling up, and then two vans came in and there was no room! We headed up to the café area and booked in for tea, then chatted to people coming along or returning from tours. We had a look at souvenirs available and I checked through to see when I had been there last – 5/5/2015! Eventually we had tea at the restaurant (rump steak – very good but no chips – they had run out) and were back and in bed by about 8:30.

Day 17 – Undara

We woke refreshed, although Lynn had not had too good a night. The first problem was to find the laundry – we did that after we’d had showers and dressed. Lynn put the washing on while I dropped the wheel and tyre off at the office. Rather than have the skirt bounce around or get stepped on, I put it back on. After the washing was finished and hung, we headed off to Undara. All went well until there was a little noise and I saw the skirt heading off backwards into the scrub. I stopped and we looked for it, but no luck. We pressed on to Undara, arriving before 10 for our 10:30 tour. I showed Lynn around a little and before long, we were off. 21 of us, with a guide, in a bus, drove to the beginning of the walk to the tubes. The explanation goes through the geological and the settlement history of the area. Finally we walked down the boardwalks to the tubes and the process of their creation was explained. We saw two tubes. After, back at the centre, we had a leisurely lunch and then headed back to Mount Surprise. At the area I had set (on a SatNav) for the loss of the skirt, we slowed and we both looked hard on the roadside. We found – plastic bottles, plastic wrap, guide posts, trees and plenty of other rubbish, but no skirt. After five kilometres of very slow travel on the verge on the wrong side and having success at finding everything else, I called it off. We returned to the park and the tyre was changed – we put it back on and Joe requested a donation for the staff fund, which I was very happy to give. After discussion, I will ring Katherine from Normanton to find either a Toyota dealer or a panelbeater to replace the skirt and correct any other damage. We returned to the site, Lynn collected the washing and I wrote up my blog. We had a cold tea and then retired to bed early.

Day 16 – Cairns to Mt Surprise

The day started very well with me getting up, showering and dressing and going out without Toby rising. We had our pancakes for breakfast, then went over to the shops – too early, no entrances open. We returned and packed the car. Key cards were returned and finally I drove out, ready to go, but the shopping centre was open and so we popped in to do the final shopping before the next section of our trip. We were out before the meters were operating, so it was a brief visit. On the way out I filled up at Shell with a 4cent docket and they had the other magazine – success! We called in to the SkyRail terminal for Lynn to get some souvenirs (they would have had to be carted up to and back from Kuranda otherwise). All was going well as we headed up the scenic drive to Kuranda – until at just before 9 we ground to a halt. About ten minutes later two ambulances, two police cars and two fire rescue appliances went past on the wrong side of the road – no other way up! A few minutes later two tow trucks followed. Just after 9:30 everything started to come down. By 9:45 we were all on our way. We saw a different side of Kuranda from the road. Our next destination was Mareeba, a lot larger town that suggested – we drove through it and back. Then we went to Atherton, where we had an early light lunch after visiting the Information Centre. We diverted from the highway to see Ravenshoe, highlighted by the many shoes nailed to bollards in the main street and the highest hotel in Queensland. We went on through Mt Garnet (cheap fuel) and Innot Springs. We passed the turnoff to Undara and then – disaster! The left rear tyre delaminated and the tread came off and took the rear skirt, air box and connectors off. I slowed down gradually but the road had no shoulder. I stopped as far to the left as possible, and started to get everything ready to change wheels. A following car (teacher and groundsman from a Western Australian school, touring with their children) stopped and provided cover as the husband and I changed the wheel. Lynn went back to collect the air box and skirt. I put the air box back but the skirt was more difficult (it was damaged and connectors were missing). Finally I got it on and we drove on. We arrived at Mount Surprise and checked in at the caravan park after looking around the town for tyres or mechanics – NONE! Plan A was to see if there was a source in the town and Plan B was to return to Mt Garnet to get a tyre. The owner of the caravan park had been a mechanic, so his wife said he’d look to see it there was a tyre. But when we got to our site, the adjoining site also had a Prado and the owner wanted to get rid of a tyre as he was no longer off-roading. So it was arranged that Jo (not Joe) of the caravan park would change it tomorrow while we were off at Undara. I cooked the left-over steak and all the sausages I had bought, we had tea and soon after we were in bed and asleep.

Day 15 – Cairns

I woke up, showered, dressed, had breakfast and then headed off around 7:40 to get ARTIE serviced. I arrived there in plenty of time and the place was open before 8:30. I explained everything, then sat down to read. By 10:30 I had read most things, but then was told that the rear shocks were leaking slightly but the front ones were bad. They were going to fit heavy-duty shocks, but couldn’t get them, so settled for a substitute for the Toyota ones. By 12:30 they were still working on them, so I walked around to the local shopping centre, found a Hungry Jacks and had lunch. Over the road was a Ray’s, which is apparently closing down, so I got the alternative tent pegs there with a discount. By the time I walked back, ARTIE was ready. The bill was higher than I had estimated, but still within reason. Talking to the owner about the RFDS picture on the rear windows, he expressed sympathy and gave me an SVS Auto Services cap. On the way back to the YHA I posted letters and postcards. The spot I had taken was now nabbed by someone else so I had to park further down. In one way it was better because I could fully open all doors for packing in the morning. I did some shopping, forgot milk and biscuits, so went back. I had been looking for the magazines but could only get one. Generally the afternoon was spent chatting and relaxing. We had sizzle steak with salad for tea (I cooked) and I met up with the Georgian (US) lad who I had been dorming with in Airlie Beach. We swapped notes about our adventures since then. Now it was only Toby (German) who was in the same dorm. It was a quiet night.

Day 14 – Cairns

After the normal morning procedure, I asked at the desk about an Op Shop purchase I was after and – walking to the nearest one, I found what I was after. The morning was spent doing very little, but just after I had lunch one girl (from Sydney, a walker) commented that the Young Endeavour was in harbour, taking on a new group of people and one was a friend of hers. I walked down with my camera, meeting and chatting with people from Traralgon along the way. They were in on a P&O cruise, had walked around the Esplanade, but had not seen it. I walked on anyway, confident my informant was correct. On Finger G in the Marina, there she was. I wasn’t able to get too close, but got some good photos anyway. On the way back I spoke with a group of young children about to board for 11 days. They were from various schools around Australia but only one was doing Year 12 (she assured me she would still be up-to-date by the time she returned). We chatted for quite a time and many of them took my RFDS card. I walked back via the cruise dock and found the P&O ship (1248 passengers). I slowly walked back to the YHA and ran across a postie. I asked about where to post letters and was told she would take them (no good, I wasn’t carrying them) but then got directions to the Cairns Post Office, about 300 metres from the YHA. I got back to the YHA and passed the time with a few fellow residents (one New Zealander who comes here regularly and one from Perth, a Uni lecturer in Chemistry). Lynn bought and cooked steak for tea, with some vegies and salad. Eventually I went to bed. Ben, from the US, was leaving, so offered for me to grab the bottom bunk, but I was settled into the top.

Day 13 – The Daintree

I rose at 5:30 and showered and dressed. I had the leftover sausages from last night for breakfast and Lynn had her breakfast and we were well and truly ready for our 6:55 a.m. departure by 6:45. The bus arrived just after 7, with a few false starts by us – there are so many tours which pick up at the YHA. There were only a few on the bus but we called in at a few other places and the bus gradually filled. Our last pickup was at the SkyRail terminal. We called into a wildlife zoo at Port Douglas and then picked up our last three and headed out to the Daintree through Mossman. At just before noon our group split – Lynn and I were dropped at a café with Eani, a Chinese girl whose parents live in Houston (in Texas) while she lives and works in Germany. We had our lunch and then were picked up in a minibus to begin our “jungle surfing canopy tour” – otherwise known as ziplining (travelling by Flying Fox) through part of the Daintree rainforest. There were twelve participants and four supervisors. We got geared up and then had to trudge up for about ten minutes to begin our travel – but that wasn’t the end. The first run was uphill and each pair had to provide the motive power for the pair before by running in a giant hamster wheel. I was disappointed that none of the supervisors knew who Penfold was (he was Danger Mouse’s assistant and had eyebrows above but not connected to his head). The first run was short and easy – then they became longer and faster, until we were able to do acrobatics while travelling. The last run was a race between each pair. At first it was rather intimidating, but by the end everyone wanted to do more, but that was not possible. We were dropped back at the company’s shopfront and were picked up by our bus soon after. We stopped for ice cream (but I think the driver wanted a smoke) and to sightsee at a lookout. We recrossed the Daintree ferry and then went on a crocodile tour along a short part of the river. We found three largish crocs and four small ones. By 5:15 we were on the run back down to Mossman and dropped everyone off, arriving back at the hostel by 7. After transferring photos and having a “healthy” tea to use up coleslaw and ham, it was after 9 and it was off to bed for an early(?) night.

Day 12 – Cairns and Kuranda

In the morning I was up by 6:30 and showered and dressed, but I didn’t seem to disturb the others, who were fast asleep. I went down with the laptop and did some checking and then banking on-line. Pancakes were coming on, and so Lynn came down and the couple from the Netherlands also appeared. We chatted while having breakfast, then wished them well. I spoke to Lynn and we agreed to do Kuranda today. I booked that at the desk in the YHA and then we puttered around until the bus appeared about 9:40 - ten minutes late because of earlier passengers who were slow to get on. We visited other places to pick others up and some of them were also a bit slow. Finally we headed out to the SkyRail Terminal. We will have to visit here again on Tuesday or Wednesday as Lynn is after some souvenirs (they were a bit bulky to carry for the day). We got our tickets and then went up in a gondola. There were great views and we stopped for the rainforest walk and tour. We continued on and then arrived at Kuranda about 11:30. We walked up the main street. After looking and getting a few souvenirs, we had lunch and then wandered down the streets, giving the town a good going over. While I tried to have an ice cream, it melted everywhere and we struck up an conversation with an English couple who enjoyed active touring. That lasted quite a time and then it was time to go and join the train for the return trip. I went to ring Abby for Saturday, but got no answer – apparently Lisa’s mobile was on “silent”. The train ride down was vey interesting and occupied my time, so I rang back once we reached Cairns at 5:30. Abby was more interested in watching a movie than seeing where I was. Before the end of our conversation she had a look and saw how far we had gone. Lynn then went back to the hostel and I went to Coles to get some sausages for tea. Back at the hostel I transferred the photos over and wrote up my blog while Lynn did the washing. Then I cooked the sausages and we had them in bread with coleslaw. We sat with a roommate of mine, Toby from Germany (who is doing a Ph. D. in Maths in Munich and at Yale) and looked through some of the day’s photos and then I went to bed.

Day 11 – El Arish to Cairns

After a relatively slow morning, we left El Arish at around 8. We were still listening to the audio book so the time passed quickly as we were travelling. I took the turnoff to Paronella Park and we went through more fields of cane and then bananas and avocados – even passion fruit at 25 cents each! The weather was getting better, but as we climbed, it got cooler and showers started up. Just before we got to Paronella, I turned left instead of right (no surprise to those who know me) and instead of finding falls, we found a pleasant drive into a national park and some great views. Coming back into Mena Creek, I found the falls on the right and, after a walk across the bridge, we then went on the hundred metres to Paronella Park. With an entrance fee of $39, it had a lot to live up to. Our guide had been raised in the area and she and her parents had used the facilities before they had been damaged and then fallen into disrepair – so on the guided tour we got many personal anecdotes as well as the normal spiel. It ended up being well worth the cost. After the tour we walked back via the turtle beach and the falls and got some very good photos. We then passed a pub with a good price for lunch, but – the wait was nearly an hour. Instead we pressed on and then detoured to Josephine Falls – very good scenery and good chatting to those we met along the way. Some very nice time lapse photographs which I hope will come out well. After that it was a good run into Cairns, arriving just before 2, and I parked on the street – a public holiday so no parking fees, but tomorrow I can get a secure spot under cover for ARTIE. When I explained who I was, some of the staff remembered me. Then we unpacked enough to secure the bunks – Lynn got a bottom one, but I wasn’t so lucky – and went over to Cairns Central to get a late lunch at about 2:30. Some times you can predict disaster and sometimes it befalls you with no warning – we found Hungry Jacks had just closed for the day! After settling for second best and then doing some shopping at Coles, we went back and settled in. We paid to have a barbecue tea in the hostel in the evening so just did some socialising in the meantime. One of the couples we met were from the Netherlands and we ended up having tea with them, looking at photos and generally having a good chat. They were returning home tomorrow after spending four weeks in Australia. They spent some time with their daughter who worked in Sydney and now was working at Falls Creek and then worked their way up the coast. I rang to confirm details for the trip on Sunday, as well as the pickup time, and after that it was off for the night.

Day 10 – Airlie Beach to El Arish

Well – overnight it was rain indispersed with birds calling and the locals burning up and down the street. I must have slept well as I hardly noticed the two others in my room coming in and I missed large chunks of the story I was listening to (I listen to my iPod overnight at low volume to down out any other noises – it works!). At 6:20 the morning bird squad decided to wake everyone up – me included – so I rose, showered and dressed. By the time I had started breakfast, Lynn was down so she had breakfast. Before we packed ARTIE, I backed him out so doors could be opened without demolishing the two other parked cars. It was quicker to pack this way, so we were off not long before 8 – after getting our key deposits back, of course. Going through Airlie Beach was different, as now I was looking for the original beach shacks where they existed between new developments. We went through Prosperpine to see what it was like, then headed north. In Ayr I posted magazine entries to Kerry and postcards to Fran and Abby (yes, I know she can’t read, but her mum and dad will take care of that). On the way down we had passed a “Scenic Lookout” sign, so I went up that – it was Mt Inkerman and it was well worth it, with not only a great view but also a barbecue and picnic tables at the top. We went through Townsville as we had already looked around and I recognised the caravan park I stayed in while visiting cousins who were working there in 2012. The bypass will soon cut all of that suburban travel off. The sun which had been with us was still there as we went into Hungry Jacks for lunch. But that was the end of that – rain started to set in. At Cardwell we visited the Coral Sea memorial, but the drizzle meant we didn’t get out – another reason to return! Just out of Cardwell I recognised a walker by the roadside – we met up through Facebook. I turned around and then found a place to safely pull over to the roadside and then chatted with her. She is raising funds for Lifeline. With the rain, she had not been looking forward to camping and had rung a motel, fist in an alphabetical list, and they had offered to support her by accommodating her for the night. She was happy and I was, having finally met her. We went on, wanting to see about camping at Paronella Park (after the recommendations people we knew had given it). However the constant rain made me consider having backup plans and we saw a roadside motel – it had accommodation available at an affordable price, so that was the night’s stop. By coincidence, there was a couple from Werribee South staying here too. We met, but didn’t know each other. ARTIE was under cover so it was easy to unload and after a while it was tea. I had to stay outside because the WiFi signal was too poor inside to receive and send emails. I copied photos over, shrank some and sent some in emails and told everyone where we were – in my haste to leave in the morning, I had forgotten to switch Spotty on! The rain continued, but the forecast from the weekend on is looking better and better. The local radar isn’t showing any rain, but I can see and hear it. An early night tonight and I’m looking forward to Cairns early tomorrow afternoon – we go on a Daintree excursion on Sunday and ARTIE is having a service on Tuesday. I have to do some shopping (crocs for walking in gorges and rivers, even though I don’t like them; better tent pegs in case we strike high winds; a dress from an Op Shop so I can stand at the edge of Kings Canyon and emulate “Priscilla” – limited copies of photographs will be available, signed), but otherwise it’s off the road for a time and getting washing and other mundane things done.

Day 9 – Airlie Beach

I arose at my usual time and had a shower and dressed. Neither of the other two (in a six bed dorm) were awake. I went down and prepared breakfast of bacon and toast, then Lynn came down. She was chatting with the lady from last night who had more things go wrong, so she was going to catch the ferry to Hamilton Island. Lynn decided to go along, so they headed off. I did some magazine puzzles, then went down to say hello to Fiona, an ex-student who lives here. We had a good chat in Mr Bones and then I went ot get a magazine which I hadn’t been able to get – but it wasn’t at Woolies, so I had to drive up to the local plaza to get one (Coles had sold out so I went to the newsagents). I had lunch at the same time, then came back to finish the puzzles off. I had to drive as it was quite a distance away, but fortunately there were still spaces when I got back. It was quite warm, so it was nice in the shade. I finished most of the puzzles off and put them in an envelope to post back – I hope they reach Kerry in time! Then I went off to get some bread for tomorrow and restock the fridge. That done, I wandered along the foreshore just over from the hostel and took some photos while looking around – I was surprised to see a crocodile sunning itself on the foreshore, but it was a sand sculpture. The tide was out, so anyone was either sunning themselves on the sand or in the lagoon – there was a few hundred metres out to the water. I walked back, had some tea and then Lynn and Judy arrived back from their trip and were full of information about their day – so much so that around 9 p.m. I had to head off to bed. During the night – rain!

Day 8 – Charters Towers to Airlie Beach

I was up again at 6:30, showered and dressed and then had breakfast. A few of the overnight guests had already left, but we were not the last to leave when we had packed up and were on the road not long after 8. We passed through undulating country and soon saw evidence of the Great Dividing Range in the distance. The highway turned north to pass through a gap and eventually we arrived at the centre of Townsville. A quick visit to the Information Centre and a walk down past the city shops and then we drove along the foreshore and finally up Castle Hill. The views from the top were very good, showing off Townsville just like a map. Then we left, and as we were ahead of schedule because of the rain, we headed down to Bowen and Airlie Beach. On the way we stopped in at Ayr for a latish lunch and arrived at Bowen. After another quick trip to the Information Centre, we visited the lookout and I called in to thank the staff at the Bowen Independent (who gave me a number to ring about Catalinas there during WWII, although I haven’t followed it up yet). From there it was a good run down to Airlie Beach. We arrived at the YHA hostel at 4:55 – I was upset because I’d said we’d be there at 5 and were early, but Lynn reckoned it was good time. We settled in after looking at the rooms (I’m in a male share with en suite, Lynn’s in a female share with en suite). I messaged an ex-student and arranged to catch up with her in the morning for coffee (although I am becoming a convert to hot chocolate). Lynn was a little too late to book a cruise she would have liked, so was planning to look around. We walked down the street for tea and did some shopping at Woolworths on the way back. We chatted with some others in the hostel, especially to an older lady whose plans had gone awry because of the weather. Then we retired to our rooms, where I chatted to a young American from Georgia before dropping off to sleep.

Day 7 – Hughenden to Charters Towers

The day dawned and then at 6:40 we got up. I had a shower and so did Lynn, then we had breakfast and Lynn made sandwiches for lunch. We packed and broke camp, leaving just after 8:30. After a brief shopping sojourn, we were waiting at the Flinders Discovery Centre (behind the VIC) and entered it at 9. WE had been told it was good and it lived up to expectations, so far being the best $5 investment for well over an hour’s entertainment and information. We left about 10 and headed out, only to be sidetracked by a pub at Prairie. Lynn was wanting stubby holders and there were some here, plus an interesting owner and an interesting inside. Lynn got the stubby holders and I got a lot of good pictures of memorabilia. We stopped at White Mountain National Park lookout, where there was a great view over a valley. Finally we got to Charters Towers just after 1 p.m. and parked to visit the Tourism Centre. We got brochures and information, but the skies were looking leaden so we decided to look for a room somewhere and found one at the Royal Hotel, an historic building with comfortable rooms cheaper than cabins at the caravan parks. We had lunch at a little café, then did the audio CD drive around points of interest – but it rained through most of it. Then an exploration of the main street was in order, culminating in a return to and unpacking at our lodgings for the night. Out on the balcony of the first floor we ate the lunch sandwiches and then I enquired an booked accommodation at Airlie Beach and Cains at the YHAs. Chatted to a couple from Emerald, then went back to our room. Lynn settled down while I wrote up my diary and finally finished around 9 and went to bed.

Day 6 – Longreach to Hughenden

As it was Sunday morning, I woke to the alarm at 5:30 and then tuned my portable radio into “Australia All Over”. I was reluctant to get up as I thought I could still hear the rain and I was warm and comfortable in bed. At 6:30 energy took over from lethargy and so I got up and had my shower and got dressed. I walked over to the Post Office and posted entries for the magazines (and stamps) off to Kerry, then came back and had breakfast. Lynn had her shower and got dressed and had her breakfast. Then we packed up and packed ARTIE up. Eventually, after everything had been checked a few times, we left about 8:30. I had hoped for clear skies and sunshine, but alas it was still overcast, a few showers and wet roadsides everywhere. Coming into Winton I had hoped again for dry conditions but the rain of the last few days meant all unsealed roads were closed to traffic. We parked in Winton and walked up and down the main street. All was the same as I remembered it, except for the gaping hole where the Waltzing Matilda Centre had been. With the road to Lark Quarry closed and little to see, we had a snack at the local bakery (Lynn should start up a blog on local bakeries) and returned to ARTIE and drove down to the musical fence. The entry road had been cut up and was muddy, so I tried to get a position so Lynn wouldn’t have to go through the mud – which required low range, first gear, and prompted the people already there to think they may have to tow me out (I didn’t have the heart to tell them that a Prado was supposed to rescue Nissans, not the other way around). All was completed successfully so Lynn played on the fence. Getting out was easier as I just kept ARTIE in low range and first gear until we were on the sealed roadway. Then we headed off to Hughenden. The Kennedy Development road in Winton Shire was reasonably narrow, so I slowed down when caravans approached – many of them didn’t and so the tyres and underbody on the left got regular coatings of mud. Once into the Flinders Shire, the road was wider and so I didn’t have to take precautions when passing. We went to call in at Corfield, but the “Closed” sign decided us to go on. We arrived at Hughenden about 2 p.m. and went to enquire at the Visitor Information Centre. The lady on duty rang up the caravan park and they had one site left, but weren’t sure if it was firm enough to be satisfactory. She offered to put us up for the night if it wasn’t! We got to the park and I recognised Jodi as being on when I came through with SUZI. She sort of remembered and looked me up and found me there in May last year. I took the site and walked back to confirm and her daughter was amazed at the card and photo. Lynn and I set up the tent and put enough in to stop it blowing away, then drove out to Porcupine Gorge and the lookout. Then we drove up to the park and the view over the “Pyramid” rock. Both spectacles were very good, but the walk down into the gorge would have made the pyramid view better. The lateness of the hour and finishing the walk in darkness made sure our decision was to go back to the caravan park, park ARTIE and walk over to the pub for a counter tea. We listened to “Killing Floor” by Lee Child on the way in (it will take a few days to get through it all). We asked patrons at the pub and meals started at 6, so we parked ARTIE and strolled through the gathering gloom. The meal was good and we chatted to some Queenslanders from Warwick (the husband had just retired) and swapped noted on parks and places to see. Then it was a stroll back, change and hop into bed – although “hop” is perhaps not the word – contort and struggle may be better. The weather was warmer so it was very pleasant dropping off to sleep.

Day Five – Longreach

The alarm went at 6 but I reset it so in future, while travelling, it will be 6:30 to wake and rise. So at 6:30 I reluctantly got out of bed, had a shower and dressed. Then I had cups of tea and toast for breakfast. Lynn got up and showered and dressed and had breakfast. At around 8 we left and cruised down the main street to see what was open – very busy! Then we headed off to the Stockmen’s’ Hall of Fame. It was still raining so when we got there (8:30) we went inside even though it didn’t open until 9 – but that gave me the chance to look at the merchandise and relax. At 9 we got our tickets (well, wristbands) to go in and we mentioned about going to the Dinosaur exhibition at Lark Quarry. Later on she mentioned that the road was cut – so that is off the list for this visit. While looking around I ran into someone else who had used the RFDS – he had a hear attack and was out for a few months. By 11:30 we had finished a comprehensive look around (but we still got a voucher to enter back tomorrow if we wanted to) and went into the town to do some shopping (supermarket me, clothes Lynn) and to have lunch (at the bakery). By 12:30 we were entering the QANTAS Founders’ Museum and arranging to go on the 1 p.m. jet tour. A look at the short movie with Michael Caton and a quick look at the exhibits and at 1 we were on the tour. Because it was still raining and cold, most of the talk was inside and the talks and show outside was brief. It was with relief that we went back to see the exhibits inside, where it was warmer. I had a look at the Catalina outside (which had been spruced up since my visit last year) and then had a chat to two local constables. At around 3:30 I rang Abby, who was just on her way back from the beach (but it was cold in Melbourne too). We left about 4 and decided that as we wouldn’t be able to see much at Winton, we would go through and head towards the coast. I filled up with fuel and ran into the same police again! After a final run down the main street it was back to the motel, sort out and get the washing on and then prepare some tea. I collected my email, wrote up the blog notes and started to have a vegetable tea, to finish off food I had been carrying since Melbourne. I complemented that with some sliced meat from today. Lynn wrote up her diary and then had a look at today’s photos and then had her tea. As everything had been done and the washing has been collected and sorted, it was to bed for a good night’s sleep.

Day Four – Charleville to Longreach

One brief excursion in the middle of the night and by 6 it was time to think about getting up. After considerable thought, the idea was dismissed and only resurfaced at dawn, an hour later. I went over to have a shower and dress, while Lynn had breakfast. I had breakfast and started to pack while Lynn showered and dressed, then we broke camp, more efficiently than before but still not expertly. We left the camp at 8:40 with a temperature of 8°C. It’s getting warmer, but not as quick as we’d like, or had been led to believe. We headed off north along the Matilda Way, then diverted to go through Augathella. Here we saw the giant meat ants – one example was a few metres long and I have the photograph to prove it. Augathella was a nice neat town, but fairly small. As we left, the sky became more overcast and the temperature was going down. We stopped in Tambo and had a very nice pie (Lynn) and pie and chips (me). We also shared a table with a nice couple from Albury who gave a thumbs up to Lawn Hill and Adel Grove. As we headed off from there, the weather took a turn for the worse and started to rain. As a result, by the time we arrived at Blackall, we just had a look from ARTIE and continued on. The town is a lot bigger and has many more facilities than I expected. We arrived at Barcaldine and it was now pouring. A brief toilet stop, a very quick look at the Tree of Knowledge and we called into the Visitor’s Centre. We had seen the caravan parks at Barcaldine full to overflowing (probably because the floodways were looking as if they would soon also become overflowing) and I got the list of accommodation at Longreach. Our consensus decision is that if the ground will be soft and it will be raining, tenting is not an option. So I rang up the same place I had stayed in last year and we got a twin room for a not excessive cost. We left Barcaldine and passed wildlife and cattle looking very miserable in the rain. The surrounding paddocks looked as if they had already been waterlogged and al the culverts, drains, creeks and rivers looked set to rise, so our decision had been vindicated. We arrived in Longreach just after 5:30 and booked in. We parked ARTIE outside the unit, unpacked what we needed and had a light tea. Lynn checked all her messages, I sent out my texts (yes, Spotty was right, we are at Longreach and we’re going to be here two nights) and then wrote up my blog – but haven’t posted it yet). After catching up on the news, it was off to bed and sleep as soon as possible.

Day Three – Bourke to Charleville

A few hours later when it was time to get up, neither of us had had a satisfactory night’s sleep. I was warm enough despite the cold, but Lynn had cold feet (no, not that sort – her feet were really cold!). I got up and had a shower and dressed, then had a cup of tea at the camp kitchen and came back to find Lynn packing up. We managed to get the tent down quickly enough, but folding the fly had both of use baffled – so we packed it separately. We had noted the time it took to inflate the mattresses, so we didn’t deflate them, just put them on top of everything else. They fitted! We said goodbye to Bourke, leaving around 8 and with the temperature hovering around 6°C. We headed straight up to Barringun and tossed up whether to call into the pub or the Bush Tucker Inn. The Inn won as there were some people already there. I got a drink, Lynn got a souvenir. We continued on to Cunnamulla and had a look in the Visitor Centre, but decided we’d only spend a little time there. A quick look at the Cunnamulla Fella, a walk along the street which culminated in disappointment at the bakery running out of pies and an unsuccessful visit for Lynn to the bank. Thing looked up when we saw the pub’s lunch specials (hamburger and chips for $10) and got even better when we chatted with a couple who mentioned there was a good and quiet camp at Charleville. Lynn then had success at the post office (and so did I), so we headed off to Charleville. We arrived at Charleville just after 3, found the campground and booked in. We selected a site and put up the tent (found the tent peg hammer, so placed it in the tent bag), then put the mattresses and some other stuff in and headed off to the Visitor Information Centre. From the information we decided to do the Bilby Experience at 5 and then visit the Historic House the next morning. The Bilby Experience was good, with a show, a talk and then watching young bilbies dance around and forage in a small display area adjacent to the railway station. On the way back to the camp we did some grocery shopping (the shops were open late) and Lynn bought some bed socks. Back at the camp we unloaded the rest of what we needed, then prepared cheese and ham jaffles. There was a fire pit, so we had the jaffle irons on the colas at the edge. While cooking, then eating, we chatted to others – two couples from Brisbane and the Gold Coast, then two couples from Henty and Table Top, and finally two couples from Melbourne (one from Cowes, but that’s near enough). One of the couples had the lady attending Sunshine North Tech at the same time as I taught at Sunshine West High. The other couple had a daughter who works at Manor Lakes P-12, so there was a lot to chat about. By 8 we headed off to try to get to sleep – as it was quiet and we were tired, by not long after 9:30 we were asleep.

Day Two - Hillston to Bourke

I awoke at 6 and got out of bed at 6:30 to shower and dress. The room was warm enough and the bed was comfortable, but I quickly realised that my waterbed at home had spoiled me. The mattress was firm and as a consequence, my shoulder blade ended up aching where I had been putting pressure on it in the bed. The warm shower (central overhead rose – very different from home and what I’m used to) got rid of the ache very quickly. However when I walked outside to get the drink I was having for breakfast, the cold hit. Lynn was very quick and prompt, and while I was packing up the car, she had finished her breakfast and was packing her stuff into ARTIE. As a result, we left at 7:30 with the temperature a very brisk 5°C. Inside ARTIE, the temperature in the front seats quickly rose to 24°C and we were comfortable. We headed out of Hillston and had a very good run. We pulled up at the Mt Hope pub, but it wasn’t open (it was supposed to be open for 8, but at 8:30 when we arrived, the notice on the door said it didn’t open until 10. Just down from the pub was a rest area with a post box and … a public phone booth! We continued on and noted the change in the landscape around us – but little change in the temperature. We arrived at Cobar around 10:10 and went straight to the lookout. The town was visible, stretched out, but the main attraction was the mine – like the SuperPit, but a lot smaller. While looking around, a couple from Crystal Brook in SA came up. We chatted a moment – they were there because a relative had worked in the mine. It was still cool, so we left and headed into Cobar. We called in to the Information Centre and toured the Museum. Interesting, but we could have spent longer there (but if so, we wouldn’t be back until the middle of October if we did the same elsewhere). Then into the town and I bought my lancet holder from THE John Mitchell Pharmacy (I had been chatting to John Mitchell, Geelong pharmacist, on Monday evening) and bandaids from the local supermarket. We then supported the local economy by having an early lunch at the local bakery. As we left the town, I filled up with diesel – ARTIE had just switched to the reserve tank). On the run up to Bourke, the sky was clear (a promise of things to come?) and the roadsides had visitors of sheep, cattle and feral goats – in some cases herds of up to a hundred goats were observed by a silly old goat and a nanny goat inside ARTIE. We arrived at Bourke at 2 and went straight to the Visitor Information Centre. There are two caravan parks around town and we chose the one in town. We arrived there with three vehicles travelling together and had to wait for them to be processed before booking it. We drove in and chose a site and decided to erect the tent while it was light, and then tour around. The tent only took ten minutes to put up (we expect to get better with practice and experience), then inflated the air mattresses and put them in. We returned to the Visitor Centre and did the “Back o’ Bourke” exhibition. Then we went to the cemetery and quickly found Fred Hollows grave – a very different memorial. We had a quick look around parts of the town, then went to the old wharf precinct. Looking around there we met and chatted to a couple from Goondiwindi. Accommodation in Bourke was also at a premium and they ended up paying $300 for a cottage for the night as there were no hotel or motel rooms left. We did some supermarket shopping and then returned to the camp. There was a school group there and this was their last night before heading home. We had sandwiches for tea at the back of ARTIE and I went up to get a cup of tea. Here I found from a lady from Colac that the Melbourne – Warrnambool express had been hit by a truck near Colac. We went into our sleeping bags early as it was too cold to do much else and the camp kitchen was open to the weather and filled by people watching the last State of Origin Rugby. However our plans for an early rest was stymied by the loud cries from the viewers of the game – some pleasure, some pain and some outright agony! Eventually that noise subsided to be replaced by trucks passing by changing gears and groups returning late to the campground. That noise died away, but dogs barking took up the challenge to keep us awake. Eventually the need for sleep became paramount, but just as I dropped off, a call of nature required getting out of the sleeping bag, putting on a track suit and boots, taking a torch and heading off to the amenity block. Back in the sleeping bag and the tent, I dropped quickly off to sleep to be awakened a short time later by the school group breaking camp.

Day One - Home to Hillston

On Tuesday 12 July, after a year of getting ready and planning, I set off to go from home to Cairns, across to Broome and then through Wolfe Creek and the Alice to home. I had ARTIE packed the day before, but had been out to a Lions' function that night, so when the radio woke me, I went back to sleep, finally arising about 6:30. Then I had to load up the water, freezer and clothing and pack my medication - this took far longer than I thought and I did it while having breakfast. After a shower and dressing, I completed packing but knew I would forget things and I'm sure some will pop up. I checked everything (yes, I forgot to lock the garage, so I remedied that) and got in the car to drive around to pick up Lynn, who would accompany me on this trip. I had said I'd be there by 8:30 and finally made it there by 9:20. Her gear had been packed in yesterday, so it was just into ARTIE and go - but not too far. Around the corner and I filled up with diesel, including a spare 20 L, got the puzzle magazines and set Spotty off. Now we were really off! Leaving later meant that the traffic was quite light and so it was at the speed limit that we went along the Princes Freeway, the Western Ring Road, the Craigieburn Bypass and into the Hume Freeway. The temperature was low (single figures), the sky was threatening and rain came down on and off, sometimes almost horizontal because of strong side winds. After Seymour it was a quick turn onto the Goulburn Valley Highway and a similar run up to Shepparton. Here we stopped for lunch at Hungry Jacks - they still had the Whopper Junior Stunner Meal on the menu - WINNER! The run up to the Murray was uneventful. The Big Strawberry was not as BIG as Lynn expected, but I had seen it many times before. I did hope the weather would clear, but no - it continued to be cold, windy with gusts of rain and some showers. By Jerilderie we were on the Kidman Way, which would take us to Bourke. Unfortunately the weather did not improve, but for a short time there were nice rainbows, so I stopped and photographed one. After, the side of the road appeared to be littered, and I knew this was cotton. At one point I stopped and picked up a piece, so Lynn now has a souvenir of this. Farms around here were either rice or cotton. We called in to look at Coleambally (like Rawson) and Darlington Point. We came into Griffith and Lynn was surprised at its size. I did the sceninc tour, down the "professional offices" street and then down the shopping street. It really is a great place. After this we continued along the Kidman Way. The weather was so bad we decided to go for accommodation rather than put the tent up - the ground looked too soft and water was everywhere. We called in to look at Goolgowi and Merrywagga and it was starting to get dark by the time we hit Hillston. In the search for accommodation, we found - no room at either pub, no room at the caravan park and no room at the first motel. The second had a room available and I found out from the motel owner that the place was full because of pickers - market gardens abound in the area, fed from artesian bores. We walked down the street, but it was after 5:30 and the town had gone to sleep. So it was back to the motel, a light tea from supplies and settling in to the "travel" mode. This was the first place I found what I had forgotten to bring - PacSafes and my reusable lancelet mount (though I may be able to get one from a pharmacy). I wonder what more will be found - or rather, not found, as we go along. After a relatively long day, it was an early night to be ready for a run through Mount Hope (stop to look at teh pub if it is open), Cobar (the lookout and look around the town) and Bourke (the Back of Bourke Centre, Fred Hollows grave and a look around the town.