Day 47 – Broome

Today was rising as usual and showering, dressing and breakfast. After breakfast we went out to the markets at the Courthouse. Although placed in exotic Broome, they were like any local markets, even down to the local school selling raffle tickets and touts selling things without paying stall fees. We did some shopping, but not much. Then we went to visit the Japanese and Chinese cemeteries – still an impressive sight! After that we drove down to the port, but couldn’t walk out due to work being done. Then we went to the fishing club and drove onto the beach there. It was only a short drive, so we went down to Cable Beach and ARTIE went along the beach for four kilometres and then four kilometres back. Then it was off to the Broome Museum, which has both grown and improved since I was there last. After nearly an hour and a half there, it was back to Coles for some shopping before returning to the YHA for lunch. I rang Abby but I wasn’t as interesting as pulling dress-ups out!

Day 46 – Broome (Cape Leveque)

Despite the noise and the interruptions to sleep, I got a good night’s sleep and was awake by 6. I got up and showered and dressed, then had breakfast and was soon joined by Lynn. We were off about 7:45 and I called around to the Woolworths servo – success! They had the mags in, so I filled ARTIE. Then we headed off to Cape Leveque. Lynn had heard horror stories of the road (backed up by comments from staff at the Visitor Information Centre) but I was convinced it wouldn’t be too bad. By 8 we were on the road up. After about 20 kilometres it changed to dirt, but after 97 kilometres of dirt and sand, it became sealed again. Our first visit was to the Beagle Bay church. Here we saw the little church and the altar – and Lynn met a new friend, who told us a little of the history of her tribe in the area. We headed off to One Arm Point, but were disappointed with what we initially saw, so turned around and went to Cape Leveque. Here we had lunch – the ubiquitous hamburger which can be served up in so many types of bread/buns and with so many fillings. The restaurant, shop and caravan park/resort are all run by Kooljamin (a local community). After lunch we walked around to see the swimming beach (a boardwalk leads to the beach with its own little café) and then down to see the main beach with its cliffs. Standing on the beach and looking out to the west, it is hard to imagine that the next stop is Africa! We left just before 3, expecting to be back to the YHA at Broome just on sunset. The unsealed road is a mixture of graded and scraped clay (good surface), clay and sand (good but often corrugated) and sand (deep and corrugated and soft), so the 97 kilometres took just under eighty minutes. We arrived back as predicted and then settled in, having no tea because of the size of lunch. Again it was blog and photo time, plus time for a chat to some others at the hostel. Sleep came fairly quickly once I was in bed, and it was earlier than most here.

Day 45 – Derby to Broome

I woke at the usual time and did the usual things, returning after my shower to find Lynn just waking. Down at breakfast I ate, then washed up and said farewell to the others who had also become regulars at that time. We broke camp (becoming expert at it now) and called in to pick up the food we had left in the fridge. In town I went to get the magazines at Woollies, but they weren’t in! We headed off to Broome, with sealed roads all the way and “Eat, Pray, Love” being read by the author to entertain us. It wasn’t long before we hit Broome – just after 11. We went to the Visitor Information Centre, but unlike Derby it was more aligned with selling products and tours rather than providing information – a disappointment. I drove around Broome, showing Lynn where the YHA was (no parking empty), the museum, the beaches, Chinatown and the shops and then Cable Beach and the other shops (a Woolworths Caltex, but the new magazines weren’t in yet!). Back at the YHA there was a spare spot, so I parked ARTIE and booked in, then Lynn booked in. I put perishables into the fridge and then we walked off to town. We had lunch in the Roeburn Hotel (“the Roey”) and then did some souvenir and other shopping on the way back to the YHA. Back at the YHA I wrote up my blog. Then, despite all the noise, I went to bed and soon fell asleep.

Day 44 – Derby

Today is the day for our Horizontal Falls flight! We were both up promptly and I showered, dressed and had breakfast. Lynn just showered and dressed, being a bit too excited to eat breakfast. We were down to the kitchen to wait for our 8:15 pickup by 7:45 and we weren’t the first! Needless to say, today as we were all older passengers, everyone was there by 8:05. The bus rocked up and we were all on – the driver looked both surprised and relieved. By 8:40 we were at the airport and, after both aircraft were refuelled, we had a briefing and then boarded our aircraft. Apparently we were loaded by weight, and I ended up next to the pilot, Nick. Soon after we were off and had a clear flight up to Talbot Bay (where the Horizontal Falls are). We were off the plane and got morning tea and then boarded the boat for our first of two runs through the falls. We did a few runs through the wider of the two falls and had to wait about 15-20 minutes before we could go through the narrower one. We did a few runs through that and then along the arm of the bay, and then back to the pontoon we were on to have another morning tea and a shark feeding demo. Then we were out on the boat for a ride up Cyclone Creek (a misnomer, as it is a safe anchorage during cyclones). We met the resident large crocodile (“Bruce”) and then returned for lunch. I decided to take the helicopter flight and Lynn came along too. We got great shots over the falls as well as the pontoons used and the countryside around. Back at the pontoon we went on a few more runs through the falls (I used a telephoto lens this time) and then it was back into the aircraft for our run back to Derby. Back at the camp we went down for a last milkshake and berries and returned to the camp feeling rather tired and exhilarated. We had different neighbours again and again they were – noisy! We went to bed early and were very soon to sleep despite the noise.

Day 43 – Derby

I was awake, showered and down for breakfast not long after 6:30. I chatted to one family from Tasmania who were stuck waiting for car parts. They had two children, both young, and couldn’t really do anything except go to the pool. While I was eating breakfast, another couple said they were in the same plight. It looks as though it is quite common and the reason for so many car repair companies in Derby. Later in the morning we went back to the Visitor Information Centre again and got yet more souvenirs – a somewhat subtle plot to spend more money. Lynn also got photographed against the boab tree she’s fallen in love with. We also drove out around the town and Lynn went to the post office. Again after lunch I chatted to those leaving for the Horizontal Falls flight – and yet again people arrived at the very deathknock, rather than being ready. I chatted to a couple who had done the falls, who we had originally seen in Kununurra. I went back to camp and noticed a front tyre nearly flat. I pumped it up and couldn’t heqar or see a leak, so took it around to Tyrepower. Fortunately I arrived there at a slack work time, so the tyre was off and into the trough – there was a pinhole just in the edge of the tread. After taking the tyre off, there was no damage so a tube was put in and all was okay. Then we went down to the Wharf Café and had a milkshake and berries. It was back to the camp, a bit of tea and then to bed – with yet a different lot of noisy neighbours!

Day 42 – Derby

I was up at 6 and showered, then dressed. The weather has been warm and cooled down overnight, but not sufficient for me to use my sleeping bag – just a sleeping sheet on the air mattress. I went down to the camp kitchen to have breakfast (they have a kettle there) and spoke to a few people before returning to clean my teeth. I walked around to the IGA to get some milk for breakfast for Lynn. I went to replace the number plate at the front and found I had forgotten nuts, so walked around to the Home Hardware to get them – cheaper than Mitre 10! Replaced the number plate, but found the spacers were larger than I thought, so I’ll have to get some 15 or 20 mm bolts. We went down to the Visitors Centre to get some souvenirs and find out about the naming of the King Leonard Ranges (named by John Forrest in 1879 after King Leopold II of Belgium) and also got the longer bolts. At the same time we went out to the Prison boab tree. Back at the park we had some lunch and then I went up to the kitchen and chatted to those about to leave on the Horizontal Falls flights. They left at around 2:15. After that I was talking to a few who were waiting for car repairs and did the magazine puzzles. Lynn chatted to a few when she came up. Then we went down to the wharf – Lynn had the Berry Delight and I had a thickshake. We spoke to a couple down there while having them. Then it was back to the park, tea and finally off to bed. Although our neighbours had left early in the morning, there were new neighbours before dark. Some neighbours can be noisy!

Day 41 – Winjana Gorge to Derby

Today was scheduled to be a short day, so of course not only were we up early, but breakfast was finished quickly (I had cups of tea on my JetBoil) and camp was broken better than ever before. We were on the road well before 8 and deposited our rubbish in the cage near the Gibb River Road. It was a good run along the road which became sealed quickly – then unsealed – and this kept up until not long out of Derby. The interesting thing is that “Ken” (my Hema SatNav) was telling me it would take until 9 in the evening to arrive at Derby, that I should turn back and it was going to take nearly 400 kilometres. I ignored his advice and followed the road signs. It was not long after 10 when we got into Derby. I bought bolts to fix ARTIE’s front number plate back on, but it was too hot to do it then. We called into the Visitor Information Centre and got some souvenirs and information. Suddenly all mobiles were working again. After a quick cruise of the town we booked into the larger caravan park. Our site was supposed to be shady (definition of shady, please), near the amenities (yes) and convenient (it was close to laundry and other things as well). After putting up the tent we went shopping at Woollies (better prices than the last few days – but only this week’s magazines ), came back and prepared lunch. I caught up with missed calls. Lynn did the washing and I inspected the camp kitchen facilities and met up with a few others – a group of whom were going on the Horizontal Falls Overnight flight. Back at camp we met neighbours and then went off just before dusk to see the sunset over the wharf and get fish (Lynn) and chips (Lynn and me) for tea. We ate them in a shelter there and chatted to a couple from Shepparton. We came back to camp, the washing was collected and things were put in order. I wrote up my blog and eventually went to bed.

Day 40 – Winjana Gorge

I woke to the (muted) animal alarm and we drank some water and then walked into the gorge. It was quite cool and the going was good. There were already crocodiles out and visible, but this was balanced out by walking along under bat colonies – screams, fluttering, flying (a bad move as eagles captured one each) and urine and guano dropping onto us. It took about and hour and an half and then we hit a ‘trail end” sign – due to quarantine. On the way back we walked more along the river sand and also saw a very large croc on his own – even after a photo I wasn’t sure if he was a freshie or saltie. We walked back to camp, had breakfast and I had a shower and dressed. I decided to walk back to get a better photo (I spoke to a ranger along the way) with the longer lens and found out he was a freshie. I spent the afternoon doing very little. Just before dusk we walked down to the large waterhole and waited – about 40 crocodiles were visible and, as it got darker, they all crept into the water. After dusk the bats flew out and some went down to the waterhole to drink. With darkness it was not easy to se what was happening, but there was the occasional splash and people (a large crowd was there) cheered as the bats escaped. Eventually we walked back, had some tea and went to bed. The evening was interesting as the toilet nearest to us was visited by a large green frog.

Day 39 – Mount Barnett Roadhouse to Winjana Gorge

I woke with the now usual animal alarm at 5:30 but didn’t rise until 6. Then it was a shower, dress and have breakfast before breaking camp. We didn’t want to be on the road too early because we had shopping to do at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and it didn’t open until 8. We arrived there a little early but it was soon open and we purchased the provisions we would need for the next few days (Derby is our next shopping place). Then we headed off onto the Gibb River Road and after a while did a turn into Adcock Gorge. We drove in and had a look, but decided against going the whole way. We proceeded on and got to Winjana Gorge in the early afternoon, paid our self-registration fees and then looked for a good campsite. We found one, set up camp, had some lunch and then headed off to Tunnel Creek. We arrived about 30 minutes later and walked in. The first part looked intimidating, but after getting in, the walking was quite easy – through water or on dry to wet sand (wet where other tourists had walked back). It took about 40 minutes to walk through the whole way, but it was worth it. Some younger fellows pointed out where they saw crocs’ eyes (but I didn’t see them myself). So it was then about dark when we got back to Winjana Gorge, too late to see the bat/croc interaction. We had a scratch tea and then went to bed.

Day 38 – Mount Barnett Roadhouse

I woke with Nature’s alarm clock at 5:30 and rose at 6 – otherwise there was no water pressure and no hot water. I went to the ablutions but still no water. It came on about 6:10, so then I had my shower. I had some drink and then headed off onto the Manning Gorge. I crossed the Rubicon (well, the waterhole) on a punt with two others and then walked with them along the walk. Conflicting information arose – different places said 1 ½ hours return and 1½ hours each way. As it turned out, 1½ hours each way was correct. I left at 6:45 and got there at 8:05. I didn’t walk all the way, but near enough. I returned after 10 minutes absorbing the scenery and photographing it. I was one of the first to return, so passed a few who wanted to know how far it was (as it turned out, I wasn’t far wrong). I got back to the waterhole at 9:10 (Lynn was in swimming) and was back at camp by 9:15. Later in the morning I drove up to get a hamburger for breakfast (very filling) and about noon drove up with Lynn for her lunch (also a hamburger). During the day I was drinking a lot, a quite a bit of water. A couple from the Variety Bash of WA drove in, but after talking to them, they didn’t know an ex-student of mine who is involved similarly. Lynn went back into the water and I spoke to a couple from Austria who have become addicted to visiting Australia (in the early evening he entertained the camp playing a saxophone). Then I spoke to a chap from Perth and his friend who had been studying drama in Sydney and was interested in motorcycles, owning a Honda 250 Spider. Back at the camp we spoke to neighbours who had the same tent and swapped ideas. We had some tea, I loaded up photos and wrote up my blog and later we were off to sleep.

Day 37 – El Questro to Mount Barnett Roadhouse

I was up at 5:30 again (noisy birds and plenty of light) to shower and dress. After breakfast we broke camp and were off by not long after 8. We called into Home Valley Station and got a drink. We caught up with the Kimberly Wild group again! It looks a nice place. We called into Ellenbrae and had scones, jam and cream. Here I found my front number plate was loose and only hanging on one screw, so I took it off rather than lose it. We set off again and passed the turnoff to Kalumburu – no water in the Mitchell Falls to speak of – and called in to see the Barnett Gorge. However, after the 3.5 km drive in, the walk to see anything was going to be over 1.5 km so the temperature decided we would not walk. We eventually arrived at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and had a pie and sausage roll for late lunch/early tea. We booked in for the night, drove down to the Manning gorge campground and set up camp. Then I sat and did my blog as the sun was setting. We had something light for tea, then went to bed – but not to sleep, as a tour group were loud and raucous. Eventually I dropped off and found someone else had told them to “shut up”!

Day 36 – El Questro

I woke early (5:30, with dawn) and showered and dressed. Lynn was quickly up and we left the campground after breakfast not long after. We headed off to Emma Gorge and started on the walk at 7:45. A lot of the walk was over difficult terrain, but it was indispersed with level sandy track. We reached point 9 by 9:15 and called it quits then. It was slower going back and we didn’t arrive until nearly 11. We were back at El Questro before noon and called in to get an icy pole – while speaking to another visitor he showed me my driving light on the left was loose. It had worn a hole and broken part of the aluminium bull bar away. We drove down to the campsite and I enlisted the aid of a fellow opposite to help me at dusk (too warm then, plus we were going out). We walked down to the reception area by 2 and were ready for our bus/gorge tour. By 2:25 we were off (bus excursion travellers were no-shows). By 2:50 we were on the cruise with Vinnie and Greg (an ex-Zimbabwean). The cruise was very slow with details of the flora and fauna, as well as the geography flowing smoothly as we went down the Chamberlain River. At a rock bar we had to stop and we fed archer fish and saw catfish and barramundi. During this time we got drinks and fruit nibbles. We returned to the bus and then got a view of the accommodation shown in the brochures – at $3000 per night! Back at the campsite I got my mat and tools out and then the fellow opposite and I removed the two driving lights (the other had broken the bull bar at the mount) and then stowed them inside. We had some tea and then went to bed after I had chatted to a French couple cycling around the country since March (they have a year) and a family from Carrum Downs (the husband does stairs and works at Werribee frequently).

Day 35 – Kunanurra to El Questro

WWe rose early – light and noise from other campers woke both of us not long after 5 and I was up not long before 5:30. After showering and dressing, I had breakfast, repacked ARTIE for travelling on roughish roads and then we broke camp. I wandered over to the kitchen to do some internet work (booking a flight, accommodation in Broome and checking up on friends. We finally left the park about 9:15, did some shopping in town and were off to El Questro by 9:30, after filling ARTIE at Shell. The drive along the Victoria Highway was uneventful. We turned off onto the Gibb River Road and soon after came across a lookout. The views were good and we had some morning tea there. We chatted to another couple (matching tops) but left soon after as it became crowded when another vehicle pulled up. We called into Emma Gorge but there was only the walk (a bit warm by then) and room accommodation. We went onto El Questro and ended up booking for two nights. After selecting a spot, we set up the tent, had some lunch and then by 1:30 headed off to Explosion Hole / Branko’s Lookout. The crossing over the Chamberlain River was a little rugged and the road didn’t improve after, so I turned around and we went to pigeon Hole Lookout. This gave stunning views over the Pentecost River to the north and the Chamberlain and Pentecost Rivers to the south. The road and the river crossings were a lot easier than the others. On the way back we spoke briefly to a vehicle travelling up there and told them of the stunning views. Back at camp we unwound a little, got an ice cream (had to go up as they melted even coming out of the shop) and finally back to camp about 4:40. Lynn went to do some washing (not much of an opportunity now for the next week). Currently plans are to be in Derby for Tuesday 23rd August as we’ve paid for a flight and boat ride over the Horizontal Falls on Wednesday 24th and I’ve already booked into the YHA in Broome for the evenings of 25 – 27 August. To give you an idea, since we entered the Territory, days have been very warm (32°C to 38°C) but evenings have been warm and muggy (if cloudy) or cool and dry (if the skies were clear). Generally the days have been cool until 9, then become warmer until sunset. We had some tea and then went to bed.

Day 34 – Kunanurra

I woke early – at dawn, after a few false attempts where people had started up engines, idled them and then headed out of the park with much noise and fanfare. The end result was I was dressed and starting breakfast by 6:30. Lynn was up later and eventually we headed off about 8:30 and went out to the Ivanhoe Crossing to get some photos so people will believe where I went (and Lynn can brag about going through the day before). After, we did a cruise of the town and then slowly headed out to Lake Argyle. With stops along the way and then a good look at the facilities there, we eventually got to the cruise about 11:50. A short bus ride and we were aboard the Silver Cobbler 2. The captain, Greg, took us around to a number of spots, pointing out history, geography, fauna and points of interest. We paused for lunch and then did a lot more, culminating in a swim with drinks in the lake – no, I didn’t. We returned about 6 and then got back to Kunanurra about 7 and had a hamburger for tea before getting ready for bed. A problem – no water in the park. The managers are aware of the problem, but two hours later it still hasn’t been fixed. I wrote up my blog and transferred photos (I have to use my music HD as I’ve run out of room on the photo HD – all 2 TB!

Day 33 – Kunanurra

I woke early because of the early dawn and tried to sleep in but couldn’t. So I got up, showered and dressed, then had breakfast and chatted to those around. Lynn got up later and had breakfast, then eventually we left to go to Mirima National Park – only a few minutes out of town and billed as a “mini Bungle Bungles”. It was good, with walks and views, but no coloured layers as in the Bungle Bungles. We went back to the camp for an early lunch, then headed off to Wyndham (not Werribee, but the real Wyndham). On the way we turned off to the Grotto, which turned out to be very good as a scenic interest, but of course no water. We didn’t walk the 300 steps to the bottom, just seeing it from the top. At Wyndham we were slowed down because the town was running the annual Wyndham Cup and raceday traffic slowed everything down. We went to the Five Rivers Lookout and it was still very good. I spoke to a guide who regularly travelled the Gibb River road – no problems, but little water in the Mitchell Falls. We came back via the Black Rock Falls, variously named as the Black Rock pool. As it happens, it is both! Very impressive! After getting back to the camp via the Ivanhoe crossing, I again made contact with a Liz, who is doing a charity ride (including supporting the RFDS). I met up with her and then returned to have tea and finally get to bed after doing a lot of fluid drinking – it has been warm and humid.

Day 32 – Timber Creek to Kunanurra

We were up reasonably early and showered and dressed, then had breakfast. No toaster, so it was a bit lighter than previous. Then we packed up the tent and found with the ground tarp it was far easier. We left about 8:30 and called into a few lookouts not far from Timber Creek. After that it was a very spectacular drive through ranges of mesas and differing ground cover, including many boabs. Many of the mesas looked like brick fences high on the range and some looked like castle remains. There were few places to safely pull over, so there aren’t photos of all we saw. At the border we had nothing to declare, so after a brief inspection we were off. It was funny leaving Timber creek at 8:30 and then arriving at Kunanurra at about 10:50! We called into the Information Centre, then chose to stay at the Kimberlyland Caravan Park. We get assigned our site, set up the tent (it was very warm)and had some lunch. I went into town to get the magazines – DISASTER! Their magazines don’t come in until MONDAY! We booked a Lake Argyle cruise for Sunday, did some other shopping and then went back to the camp where the afternoon was spent writing my blog, transferring photos, charging the camera battery (only having a 240 charger is a definite drawback) and charging the laptop (ditto!). Lynn did some writing and reading. We cooked some tea and we went to bed early and then to sleep.

Day 31 – Katherine to Timber Creek

We awoke early to get moving underway, but I didn’t want to leave too early in order to shop and refuel by the time the magazines were in. The first part went to plan – we left the park by just after 8:30 and did the fluid shop as Woolworths was open. I filled up and disaster struck – they don’t get the magazines until Friday, so I missed out on getting them AND the extra 4 cent discount (on 140 L it would have been considerable). However Lynn did remember we forgot to pack stuff we had left in the camp kitchen fridge, so we called in (it was on our way) and collected them. We were off! We passed the Katherine station but there was no train in, and we listened to a story while driving along, marvelling at the varied scenery by the roadside. One kangaroo was very lucky as he crossed the road just in front of us, with no warning at all. Then, before we knew it, we arrived in Timber Creek. Booking a site was easy – and only $5! We looked at a cruise in the late afternoon and booked that, making up the eight necessary for it to run. Then we had a drink in the front bar of Fogerty’s Hotel in Timber Creek, just so we could say we had. Back at the caravan park we selected a site, set up the tent and had a light lunch – we had to use up vegies before tomorrow as we will be crossing the border at a quarantine point into Western Australia. We sat and chatted to our current neighbours (who were going on the same cruise) and then headed down to catch the bus at 4. We called into the old Police Station museum before departing from the landing on Big Horse Creek. There were the eight of us, so it was very good. The cruise started off slowly, we had a look at Bradshaw Bridge from under and then we barrelled up the river. We saw a few crocs, mainly smallish ones, but the highlight was feeding a sea eagle and a kite from the pontoon we had a light tea on. On the way back we saw numerous wallabies and a croc or two. Once back at camp we changed and settled for bed – it was very warm so I didn’t use a sleeping bag, just a sheet. It was very quiet compared to other nights.

Day 30 – Katherine

After rising early, I dressed, had breakfast and then took ARTIE down to Katherine Smash Repairs to get the rear moulding flange and associated parts fitted. I arrived about 7:50 and before 8 I was walking back to the caravan park. Then I got the magazines and commenced doing the puzzles so I could send then back home. Effectively, after chatting, that took up the whole morning. Lynn went soaking in the hot springs, not far from the rear of the caravan park. I got a call by just before 12 saying ARTIE was ready. By 1 I had paid for the repair and picked him up. Back at the park we had lunch (Lynn was back from her trip to the hot springs and had chatted to a semi-local while in the water there). We then went into town – I shopped for a few things for the tent (a lantern to hang, a tarp for when things are dusty, a tow rope just in case and Bars Bugs, as the dirt on the windscreen was hard to move). Then I took ARTIE through the car wash at the Caltex servo – probably the best wash in the country – and he looked really clean after, so I took a few photos. Suddenly I became critical of those with any dirt on their car! I met Lynn, who had been doing some shopping, and we went back to the caravan park. Around 3 we leisurely headed off to the gorge via the station (the Gahn was in again), had an ice cream and then made our way down to the boat departure area. It looked like a good, small and quiet tour until a 6/7 class from Darwin on an excursion showed up just before we left. The cruise was good, with enough banter and information to keep most entertained. When we crossed into the second gorge, I noticed many improvements had been made since I last visited in 2006 – hand rails and concrete filling in gaps between the rocks. I found myself admonishing children, but not too loudly. The second gorge was very good and I remembered some of the features and the associated spiel. It was getting darker by the time we returned and we saw a number of wallabies while walking and then driving back to Katherine. We decided to get McDonalds on the way home (no Hungry Jacks – Katherine really must move into the 21st century!). Back at the park our neighbour was not playing his radio loudly, nor talking to himself loudly, but a transport over the road valiantly stood in and idled his diesel engine most of the night.

Day 29 – Katherine

We rose in a little more leisurely manner, showered and dressed, had breakfast and then I called in to pick the parts up – all good except one part was missing! I didn’t panic and we went up to the railway station – and lo and behold, the Ghan was in. The train supervisor was the same one who was on the Indian Pacific when I met it at Cook! We had a look at the carriages, walked along the train, got some brochures and got some information – the train was nearly full, except for some no-shows from Alice Springs. I got a call from an ex-colleague about being a referee, so arranged to take that call after 4. Then I spoke to a travelling couple photographing the train about the joys of train travel and received a message about the missing part being found. I called in to pick that up, then we went out to the gorge. We decided to book for tomorrow afternoon but looked around while we were there. On the way back to town we visited the museum – very informative and I met a couple from the RAAF – we all reminisced about the “good old days”. Back at the camp after a little shopping for lunch and we had lunch. Lynn put some washing on and I did my census form and then spoke to three motorcyclists in camps along from us. I received a call but it didn’t answer and I couldn’t call back, so I will tomorrow morning. Then we had tea and eventually retired to sleep.

Day 28 – Daly Waters to Katherine

We were up fairly early, had showers, dressed, had breakfast and broke camp by 8:10. We visited the Stuart Tree and the old Daly Waters airfield – it had a current light plane there. We then went back to the Stuart Highway and made our way north – we called into Gorrie Airfield, rather like the one Michael Caton called into in “Last Cab to Darwin”. Then we stopped in to the hotel at Larrimah – no stubby holders there, but Lynn ordered one. I had a pie and ice cream for morning tea. As we proceeded to Mataranka, I ran across an eagle – or rather, it flew into my grille, then bonnet, then windscreen. Eventually, within a few seconds, he fell to the left side of the road, off the road surface, and well into the gravel. I hope he survived! At around 11:30 we arrived at Mataranka and went through to the hot springs at Bitter Springs. We walked around and then Lynn went in for a swim. Two turtles were seen – one small (about 8 cm), the other larger (15 – 20 cm across). By 1 Lynn had had her fill and we moved on. Cutta Cutta caves was the next point we visited before arriving at Katherine. We called into the Visitor Information Centre at Katherine and got some brochures – the caravan park recommended to us didn’t come up on the SatNav, but neither did the address I found. It was back to paper maps. We found the park and booked in for three nights. Then I went down to the Toyota dealer – the parts were in, but they couldn’t fit them until next Tuesday! However I found a smash repairer willing to do a deal and they will be fitted on Wednesday morning. Then it was down to some shopping at Woolworths, set up camp and then prepare a late tea from new supplies. We spoke to those around us and I spoke to some German tourists who were on a Rotel tour. Lynn went to bed and I did some puzzles from the new magazines (old ones were posted to Kerry this afternoon) and went to bed around 9. The first part of sleep was punctuated by military jets flying over. After that, things settled down.

Day 27 – Borroloola to Daly Waters

I awoke fairly early – but unfortunately mattresses are now not as kind to me as my waterbed or even the air mattress I’m using in the tent. Once I’m awake, I feel uncomfortable and have to get up. I got up and had breakfast – still in my PJ, a rare treat. Lynn got up to shower and after I had finished breakfast, I had my shower, dressed and packed things up (clothing bag, computer, camera and pillow bag). We were on the road by about 8:30 and headed straight down to the local river to take some great shots from the river bed. Then it was off on the road to the Heartbreak Hotel. We had been told to drive in to the Lost City, but saw no signs or other information. We did see the McArthur River mine – it looked pretty big and was working today. Once we got to the Heartbreak Hotel our hearts were broken as the Irish backpacker on the bar said helicopter was the only way in, but it wasn’t operating until Tuesday (it’s Sunday today). I spoke to a Swiss motorcyclist (a welder) who was working his way around the world and thought he had enough money for nearly another year. Then we headed off, looking for signs – but there were none! We arrived at the Daly Waters pub about 1:20 and stopped at the red light. As it was permanently on, we went no further. We ordered some lunch and then booked a site for the night. The burger I had wasn’t as good as in 2006! Our site had en suites as amenities blocks – very swish! We spent the afternoon in the lounge of the hotel and chatted to many different people. We also drove back to have a look at the Highway Inn at the Borroloola turnoff and put 20 L of diesel in. Back at the Daly Waters pub, entertainment came on about 5:30 and we headed off, had some light tea and were in bed before 7. The night was punctuated by owls hunting and dogs barking at the owls.

Day 26 – Adel’s Grove to Borroloola

I woke up to get showered and dressed and have breakfast. We weren’t in too much of a rush as I didn’t want to leave early to avoid the rising sun in my eyes and also to arrive and fill up at Gregory Downs after they opened (10). The camp opposite us had a flat battery in their HiLux after running everything off the battery for a day and were looking for jumper leads – one of the things I didn’t pack as that was the reason I had two batteries. Eventually they found some and were jumpered to start. We packed up and were on the road before 9. It was a good run to Gregory Downs – except for seeing so many camped in the river bed despite express warnings against doing so – there was a free camping area just up from the pub! We got to the pub and – no diesel in the tanks! He was just starting to transfer a few thousand litres over, so we just had a drink in the pub. Then it was along the road back to Burketown until the turnoff to Doomadgee. The road was good and there were many eagles along the way – a few very large wedge-tails – but none were game enough to stay on the road to be photographed. We also saw a pig cleaning up some roadkill. At Doomadgee we went to get lunch – only chips and fish, the bakery was closed and nothing else available. I had chips and Lynn got herself lunch from the food on board. We arrived at Hells Gate just after 1. I had an ice cream and drink there and took a few photos and decided to head off for Borraloola, figuring that even with the dirt surface I’d be there well before sundown. Most of the road was reasonable, with a few corrugated sections and at least six creek crossings – all negotiated with care successfully. However the driving did take a little toll and so when we arrived in Borraloola we decided to take a cabin in the caravan park rather than set up. Of course, after we did, we then found there was no place to have tea in town. The only alternative was another 40 km on, so instead we settled on cheese on toast. I had ALDI signal so I sent texts and went online. I updated my blogs and photos, rang Fran, Jason and Vanda and tried to get my emails. Connection was very slow. Eventually I went to bed and to sleep.

Day 25 – Adel’s Grove

I woke – but not at the beginning of the day, rather only a few hours after I had gone to sleep. We had very noisy neighbours. After turning up the iPod in my ears I finally went back to sleep again. Then I did wake at the right time to get a shower, dress and have breakfast. Lynn got up in time to have her massage. The day was spent doing very little, apart from chatting with the doctor next door before she upped stakes and moved closer to her friends. I had both lunch at tea at the shack – perhaps the staff were getting sick of me by then! I did speak to a potato farmer from Gunns Plains in Tasmania and a farming couple from Clermont – Lindsey and Heather. It was amazing how many people knew others in common or knew areas in common. I also did some more walking along beside the creek, further downstream. We had tea at the shack again, our last meal there. Then we were back to the tent and went to bed early – but very soon our noisy neighbours were at it again – 5°C overnight in Brisbane was considered to be cold and I heard about it many times. Finally I fell asleep with the iPod up even further than last night.

Day 24 – Adel’s Grove

I woke up early, showered and dressed and then had breakfast in the camp kitchen. Breakfast is currently two large cups of tea (550 ml each) with Teddy Bear biscuits and then either toast, weetbix or something else – this morning it was sausages in bread. Lynn had a briefer breakfast and then we were ready by 8 to drive down to Lawn Hill to go on the cruise. The road down was surprisingly good, given its remoteness, the traffic and obvious infrequent maintenance. There were a few corrugations and some minor ruts, but nothing to write home about – so I didn’t! We were at the parking area by not long after 8:30 and recognised some cars from the camping area. Some must have gone on an earlier cruise, but some had been walking. None were canoeing because it was cool (less than 13°C). We walked around, familiarising ourselves with the area and finding where the cruises went from. By 9:15 the other cruise had come in and all the passengers for the 9:30 cruise were there, so we headed off. The boat is powered by an electric motor and carries about 10 people, plus driver. We headed downstream, then upstream for a lot longer than it initially seemed possible. The commentary was about the area, the geology, the gorges and the flora and fauna. The gorge has different microclimates on each side and contains some species not commonly found (one fern is here, a part of Indonesia and Hawaii). We saw tofu falls which build up, not erode down like rock falls. We didn’t return until well after 10:30, so we had a good trip. After visiting the facilities, we walked along to get another view of the falls – from above, it’s easier to see them as from river level, vegetation obscures them. We headed back to camp (it was getting warmer now) and had a little light lunch. I wrote up my blog and transferred today’s and yesterday’s pictures. I walked along the creek and saw a lot more of it – Lynn went into the swimming hole but only to paddle. The rest of the afternoon was spent just doing very little and chatting with a few people. I did transfer photos I had taken of our neighbours and a group opposite who had been paddling in the gorge. I had a massage in the afternoon and will have to wait a few days to see if it was successful. At least no ribs were broken, although the masseuse told me she could clearly see where the break was in my shoulder blade. We had tea at “The Shack”, the fish and chip shop. Then I went for a walk around the park to try to find the other amenities block. I had no luck and took a long time to return to find Lynn missing. However her chair and the chair of the lady next door was missing so I didn’t worry. I went to bed and later Lynn returned and she went to bed.

Day 23 – Burketown to Adel’s Grove

Despite the seemingly strong wind overnight and the ground being so hard I could only hammer some tent pegs in about 5 cm., nothing in the tent (or the tent itself) moved. I got up earlier and had my shower and dressed and then started breakfast in the very well-appointed camp kitchen. Lynn came over a little later and we finished breakfast, washed up and finally broke camp. I wasn’t in a hurry as I had promised to call back at the Shire offices and Lynn wanted to get some money out at the Post Office. I drove around to near the offices and Lynn bought rolls made up for lunch while I enquired about the census and the roads. A very helpful council officer ( ) found out I could do everything at the Roper Shire (either Borraloola or at Katherine) and also told me of the road conditions – from Burketown to Adel’s Grove (relatively good) and from Burketown to Doomadgee (relatively bad). So I’ve decided I’ll go back to the main road to continue on after Lawn Hill. I met Lynn at the car and we went to the store and Post Office. The store didn’t have much (but there were two classes, total around 24, at the school) but the Post Office had a lot. I was able to buy a sticker from Burketown there and they had a lot of general supplies. I posted off magazine entries for Kerry. We chatted with some ringers from Mt Isa. Lynn got her money and we set off. The first part of the road was very good. However my Hema SatNav couldn’t find Adel’s Grove, so I started up my old one and then went to 4WD on the Hema. Surprisingly, it worked very well. The scenery along the way was very good, with examples of all types of vegetation, and we saw many eagles (some in flocks, but none remained on road kill long enough for a good photo), some kangaroos and even a family of emus (dad with about six chicks). The road was still bitumen but cut up where mine traffic used it, and was a little better after it became unsealed beyond the mine turnoff. We arrived at Adel’s Grove before 1 and found it to be a little oasis in the middle of nowhere. I booked in for three nights, Lynn booked for a cruise tomorrow and then we selected a site – near a little waterfall, relatively isolated and next to a couple from the Netherlands we had met at Cobbold. We settled in, got the tent up, ate the rolls we had and explored the little walks around the camp. It’s very peaceful. I signed up for a massage tomorrow and Lynn for a massage the day after. I did some reading and puzzles, then we bought tea (chips and potato cake for me) from “The Shack”, a fish and chip shop sharing the camp kitchen structure. I did many more puzzles from the magazines (I want to be able to post them in Borraloola) and eventually went to bed about 8 and to sleep – Lynn had retired earlier.

Day 22 – Normanton to Burketown

I woke early and got ready for my shower, ran the water for about ten minutes and got a warm shower – but I was left in the dark. After I got out and it was light, I looked around, found the local board in the kitchen and reset the circuit breaker – so all was right for Lynn to have a shower. We had breakfast near the kitchen in the company of a family camped near us – a father and two boys (6 and 9). They were from Woollongong and mum, a primary teacher, was home. We broke camp slowly and got a call back from the Burketown Caravan Park – only one site tonight, powered, so I took it. After we broke camp I rang Katherine Toyota and ordered the parts to fix the rear. I told him I wouldn’t be in until next late week. We left before 9, decided no more shopping was needed and headed out of town. The SatNav wanted me to go a roundabout route double the distance, so I just followed the signs. The scenery was interesting and varied. We went down to Burke and Wills 119 Camp and on the walk out chatted to the driver and cook for a tour company. They go Cairns to Darwin, pick up another lot and then go Darwin to Cairns. I took some photos at Little Boneyo Creek – it was larger than the actual creek – and lost my handkerchief there! It was blown out of my pocket. Soon we came across the Leichardt River. I took some photos in the river bed crossing, then we went up to the views over where the Leichardt Falls would be in the wet. Very nice scenery in what was part of the river bed. We then arrived in Burke about 1:30 and decided to have lunch at the pub. After that I booked in at the caravan park, we put the tent up (hard ground – the pegs only went in a few centimetres) and then visited the Information Centre. Most of it was about the local Lands Council and their activities – very interesting. I also enquired about the census – the local council have forms but couldn’t give them to us, but I was assured we could get them at Borroloola. The officer in charge at the Information Centre was just looking up the fines for not filling in the census, but making it online has made it difficult for those with no Internet access or those travelling. We travelled out to the moorings and ramp on the Albert River, then had a look at the Works and Landsborough Tree on the way back into town. I did some of the puzzles (which have to be back soon, so I hope Australia Post does its job), got some tea ready, started the laptop and the camera battery charging (I’m paying for power, so I might as well use it) and then transferred the photos over and cleared part of the card in the camera so I can take more over the next few days. Currently the plan is to go to Adel’s Grove, stay there for up to three nights and then return via Gregory Downs to get the maximum sealed road. We have enough to do until the parts get replaced at Katherine, so I’d rather less dirt gets in. Lynn went to bed fairly early, but I stayed up to do this blog and finish the photo transfer and battery charging (I won’t leave the cables out in the open overnight). I chatted to a chap who worked for those who had contracted the optic fibre cable from Burketown to Doomadgee – they installed by ripping the soil and then planting it 1.2 m down with a plough. Then it was off to sleep with everything charged and