Day 67 – Adelaide to Melbourne

The day started early as I got up to have an early breakfast at 5, then went back to bed. I rose at 6:40 and packed ARTIE with the tent gear, which I had put out to drain and dry. Then at 7:40 we left. The run out of Adelaide was good, just a bit slow because it was the morning peak. On the run up the hills, there were reduced speed limits because of the previous heavy rain. Once out on the plains the other side, the weather improved and there was little evidence of water damage. We stopped in Coonalpyn, Nhill (for the papers), Horsham (for lunch) and Beaufort. By 5:20 we were back in Hoppers Crossing and I filled ARTIE with diesel and I noted all numbers and signed off on the trip. Around the corner I dropped Lynn off and unloaded her gear and then I went home. I only took what I needed out of ARTIE and then went in to get ready for bed and slip back into normal home life.

Day 66 – Adelaide

Shopping and catching up with a friend.

Day 65 – Adelaide

Very briefly – attended my grandnephew Alex’s second birthday party. A very enjoyable evening.

Day 64 – Parachilna to Adelaide

I woke at 6 and got up at 6:30. I showered (yes, as the advert said, the water was hot, but the taps were up high and I could JUST reach them) and dressed, then had breakfast over in the kitchen – Lynn had just finished hers. The site is the old school and we had the classroom as our kitchen. When I returned, I made the judgement that with the heavy rain and the previous road closures (and possibly more today), we would truncate the trip and head down to Adelaide. So we packed up (packing the gear in rubbish bags as it was wet) and headed down south. Through Hawker, then Quorn, and we called in at Wilmington to see the Puppet Museum. I can thoroughly recommend it as an interest and as a way to spend about an hour at least. I got some hand puppets for the children and then we headed off to Port Augusta for lunch. After lunch we headed down the main road to Adelaide with dark clouds and heavy rain on the horizon. It was a reasonable run down with showers and heavy rain, with only a few periods of dry weather. We arrived in Adelaide around 4:10 and called into Fran’s, where we will stay for a day or two. My grandnephew here (Alex) turns two tomorrow so it turned out circumstances were fortuitous – I have quite a few things for him from travelling. I wonder if he will recognise me as my hair is long and my beard is extremely bushy. We went out to tea at the local pub (cheap schnitzel night) for tea and then came home for an early night in bed.

Day 63 – William Creek to Parachilna

I woke to the alarm at 5:30 only to find the mobile had switched itself to Melbourne time, so it was still only 5. I went back to sleep and then got up at 5:40, woke Lynn and then went to shower and dress. I had a drink and biscuits for breakfast (no camp kitchen with kettle) and soon Lynn was ready too. We drove down to the airport and were ready for 6:45. The other plane was ready and went just before 7, but our other passengers were standing around at the hotel chatting. Finally the pilot got them and we were away by 7:10. I got the co-pilot’s seat again. We headed east, then north-east, going over the south coast and a bay at the southern end of North Lake Eyre. According to the pilot, the deepest point at the moment is about 1.5 metres and the southern end is too salty for any bird life. Apparently the pelicans have started to fly home, even those from Papua New Guinea! We saw ripples in the lake bed, waves on the surface, the current maximum level (marked by vegetation) and the old shoreline when Lake Eyre was permanent and fresh (black staining on rocks). By 8:10 we were in the car back to the campground. Lynn got the washing in, we packed and then we headed off around 8:30 (which now seems a normal time no matter what). We bade William Creek goodbye and headed off roughly east to Marree. The road was very chopped up where water had pooled in some floodways, but everything was passable. We met a lot of vehicles coming the other way. There were many remnants of the old Ghan line, but by now only the bridges were of interest to me. About 30 kilometres out of Marree was “Planehenge”, but the main purpose seemed to be to publicise the local community’s anger at the uranium mining at Roxby Downs. They asked for a donation from visitors; I donated but I didn’t see too many who did. Lynn stayed in the car. We headed on into Marree, where the board proclaimed that the road to William Creek was closed. It didn’t seem that too many people took any notice of it. We had lunch in the café there, looked around town (and even visited the MCG) and then headed down south. A number of times we ran into the lady and her friend who had judged dressage up in the N.T. Parts of the road were sealed to Lyndhurst, but the story was the same – parts of the road badly cut up and some floodways just passable. At Lyndhurst I refuelled with discount diesel (146.9 c/L) and confirmed that the turn-off from Copley was the best way to visit Arkaroola. However, once there, the board proclaimed that the road was closed. I decided to head south, but the weather was becoming overcast, so we stopped in at Parachilna and set up camp there. Very homely, but the showers looked okay and the water was hot AND they had a camp kitchen with a kettle. I had some cups of tea, transferred the photos and wrote up my blog while sitting on real chairs. We got a call from the manager – our tent was blown partially down – on the windward side. The extendable legs collapsed on that side. Just pulling it up cured the problem but I extended the cords on the corners and staked them in. Then the rain started. We had an early night. The rain continued between light, heavy and quite heavy.

Day 62 – Marla to William Creek

I woke to the alarm call of the native wildlife and went for a shower and to dress. I had breakfast, but with no camp kitchen with kettle, I used my little Jetboil to make my cups of tea. Lynn rose and got ready, then we broke camp and were off on the road at about 8:30. The local sign said the road to Oodnadatta was open, but that the road to William Creek and Marree was closed. I set off with a number of options in mind. The road to Oodnadatta was quite good considering the rain it had, but in some places there was still water covering most of the road. However none of those provided any real problem. At Oodnadatta the sign said, “Road Open”! We had an early lunch at the Pink Roadhouse and bought some souvenirs. Surprisingly there was an Optus signal but no Telstra, so I sent out texts on our progress and rang Jason. I tried to ring Barry, but got no answer. We had a look over the Railway Museum, which was comprehensive and informative – it’s locked, but you can get the key from the pub or the roadhouse. On the road to William Creek there was a lot more water, more difficult crossings and a few short detours. There were a lot of reminders of the old Ghan, so I took pictures of some of the remaining bridges. At one of these, there were many mosquitoes, so even though I killed about a hundred or so, many more accompanied me back to the car. Then, at Altebinga, the track to visit the bridge cut through a creek tributary and I had to go into low range and go back and forth a few times to get through. Further along the track we ran into a woman cyclist from Brisbane, doing the track on her own. We spoke to her through the window, driving along beside her for a short time. The roadside scenery varied from flat to undulating, with vegetated hills to “painted” hills, and the cover varied from continuous to sporadic. At some places the ground was covered in gibbers. In many places the rains had washed sand, gravel and small rocks into the floodways, so it was a case of having to decide at each point what path to take and how fast to go through. With just sand, one or more wheels of ARTIE would slow and his direction would alter. With gravel, it was like driving into a blancmange. With rocks, sharp edges could be pointing up, so it was a case of choosing a path carefully. Also, some washaways were quite deep and so the first one was a very rough surprise – but after that I was ready. We got to William Creek about 4:20 – if we chose to go on, we wouldn’t get to Marree until after 7, plus I wouldn’t have a good view of the road. The decision was to take a donga for the night, which was rented out from the pub. The campground had no grass. I unpacked some things, Lynn did the washing and I spoke to a fellow from Geelong, here because the rain had altered his plans. Then we had a light tea (finishing off lunch) and went to bed early.

Day 61 – Yulara to Marla

Well, there were no interruptions to sleep overnight. I awoke at 6 and got up before 6:30 and showered and dressed before 7. I had breakfast and Lynn came down before I finished. I packed ARTIE up and then returned the keys. We were off by about 8:30. I put 50 L of diesel in at the slightly discounted price at Shell. Then we went through Ayers Rock (to see where the company was who picked SUZI up and then couldn’t find SUZI after the accident) and out to the airport. Then we headed east on Lasseter Highway. We stopped at Mt Ebenezer roadhouse and got some souvenirs, then went into Erldunda. Here we had lunch. We then headed south down the Stuart Highway and called into Kulgera. Lynn wasn’t able to get the stubby holder she wanted with the stockman and dog on it, but they had run out. We spent a little time at the border and then went on towards Marla. We booked in at the caravan park – green lawn and a restaurant with reasonably-priced food. We put the tent up and set everything up, then went around for tea – schnitzel for me and mixed grill for Lynn (too much for me). Then we went back and went off to bed. All was well until a school group came in and were very noisy at the same time as I was going to the toilet, so I spoke to some of them. They seemed to settle down after. Throughout the night it was busy at first as many vans pulled in late, and then road trains pulled up for a rest. It was cool overnight.

Day 60 – Yulara to Uluru and return

I woke at 6 but didn’t get up until 6:30. Then it was the usual shower and dress and breakfast. Quiet this morning but I did speak to an Austrian who is working as a chef at a German Club in Dandenong Rd, Prahran. After breakfast I did a little organisation in the car, but after Lynn had her breakfast (and I introduced her to a like-minded Kerry from the Gold Coast) we set off for Uluru. We went through the Cultural Experience there and did a little souvenir shopping. Then we drove around the rock. Although there is the ten kilometre walk around the base, the road is now a lot further away than it was when I was here in 2005 with Fran. Also, areas are marked as culturally significant and it’s requested not to take photos, so there will be a lot less than there were back then. We did walk in at two places and I took photos there, plus at one or two other spots. Then it was back to Yulara (taking quirky photos on the way back – “beware of tuning forks” and “Watch for Wildlife” – I don’t personally think that lizards should wear watches, let alone have them purchased by tourists). We had lunch and then I spent the afternoon doing puzzles from the magazines as I’ll have to post some solutions from here before we go tomorrow. Then I took the shuttle bus over to Town Square to purchase the new puzzle magazines – they were in, so far better than Katherine or Kunanurra. As sunset was soon coming, I went up to the resort lookout and photographed every minute to see if changes are evident. Those pictures won’t be up until I get home. Then it was just something to drink and then off to bed for an early night. The girls requested a room change as they thought they were disturbing us too much (we spoke with them at lunch) so it should be easier to get a full night’s sleep tonight.

Day 59 – Yulara to Docker River and return

The day began before 5 when our roommates got up and eventually left (after a few return visits, just to make sure we hadn’t gone back to sleep). By 6:30 it was too light to stay in so I got up and showered and dressed – Lynn began to do the washing – and then we had breakfast. Just before 9 all the washing was out and we were ready to go so I got the co-ordinates from emails that Spotty left for the accident. I put those into the SatNav and off we went. The first order of business was to purchase three-day passes to Uluru, so we bought those and then headed off towards the Olgas. Along the way a vehicle just pulled out in front of me from the dune-viewing area for the Olgas and then proceeded to remain on the wrong side of the road for a few minutes. Just before the Olgas (if you’ve been there, you’ll know what I mean) we turned off to the west to scout out where SUZI met her demise. Acting on the co-ordinates, I stopped on the side of the road (the SatNav said I should go about 13 metres south), recognised the three trees I stared at for three hours and then saw pieces of SUZI. I collected a few and took some pictures with the same background as those which Nick took at the scene for me. After a little sob moment we headed further down the road and ended up in Docker River for an early lunch. I spoke to two WA policemen who were in there (from Warakuna) about the accident and gave them a card. On the way back we stopped to take some photos (what a surprise), called in to Lasseter’s Cave and I picked up an abandoned registration plate on the road (I wonder if someone found my 1G 2HO on the road between Tobermorey and Jervois?). We were back in Yulara before 4 and Lynn got the washing in, I unwound and then wrote up my blog and transferred the pictures. We had a light tea and were then to bed by about 9, after taking the shuttle bus over to Town Square to buy ice creams. The girls came in later but this time used torches rather than the lights and (to me at least) were a lot quieter.

Day 58 – Kings Canyon Resort to Yulara

I got up at 6:30 and had a shower and dressed, then had breakfast. Lynn was up soon after and had her breakfast, so we started packing after that and were away to Reception before 9, collected the key deposit and then headed off south towards Lasseter Highway. The run was nice and smooth, the road being sealed. The scenery was changing minute by minute. Once on Lasseter Highway, we stopped at Mt Connor Lookout (a crowded and busy spot) and then at Curtain Springs. Motorcycle touring group were there on BMWs and the riders were from Asia. The tone improved when some Suzukis came in and I spoke to them. Then I ran into a fellow who recognised me from Broome! We set off and got into Yulara about 12:50, so I called into the Health Centre and caught up with Leigh (ambulance driver) and Rob (nurse, who prepped me for my operation). Kath, the nurse in the ambulance, had shifted back to Melbourne with her husband, because of his work. I was too late to catch the police, so we went to Pioneer Lodge. Unlike other times, we couldn’t book in until 3, so it was a case of look around to find what facilities were available, where they were and what we could do. I left Lynn to have lunch and I went back to the police station and caught up with Nick and Val. They, like the ambulance officers, remembered the incident very well and were surprised to see me so well. I invited them around for a drink this evening, but some can’t make it until tomorrow or the next evening – but as we’ll be here three nights, that’s OK. I went back and we waited for the room and keys – I got them at 2:50. Lynn and I did some shopping, then came back to the Pioneer Lodge (but as YHA members, we get a considerable cut off the retail cost). Lynn settled in and I went to the lounge and did some emailing and blog writing. I sat in the same place I had just before I set off on my ill-fated trip (and even parked in the same place!).

Day 57 – Kings Canyon

A new day dawned with no other residents in our room. It was very pleasant and quiet compared to caravan parks and hostels we have been in recently. I was up about 6:30, showered, dressed and had some breakfast. Lynn got up later and we then headed off and were at Kings Canyon before 9. We started the walk up before it got too warm, but comparing this trip with last year’s, I can feel the effect of the scarring on my lungs. I got out of breath far more easily and wasn’t able to move quickly enough to get sore muscles. We both made it to the top of the climb and then walked around, including to Colliston’s Lookout but not including the Garden of Eden walk. During the walk, we ran into and chatted with a number of people. Lynn had difficulty around marker 60, so sat and rested. I had a task to do, but had gone past the place where Priscilla sang on the rim in “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert”. I went back quickly and with some assistance completed my task, at Marker 53, to the amusement of many passers-by and a school group from Alphington Grammar. I soon caught up with Lynn and we were down to the carpark by 1:30. After that it was back to Kings Canyon Resort, a snack for lunch and a rest in the afternoon. I chatted with a naturalist/astronomer photographer and lent him a memory card, asking that he post it back once he returned to England and copied the photos onto his computer. We went up to see the sunset and ran into two retired teachers from Tasmania who had helped on my task. After that, it was a light snack for tea and an early night.

Day 56 – Alice Springs to Kings Canyon Resort

I was awake at 6:15 with Louis’ alarm ringing and ringing – he slept through it but no-one else did. It was the time I wanted to rise, so I was up, showered and dressed. I moved ARTIE into the public parking area and then had breakfast. Lynn was also up, so I put some things into the car and then packed my stuff up. I went around to the Visitor Information Centre and got the pass for the Mereenie Loop ($5). Back at the YHA all was finished, so I said goodbye and returned the key card. We set off – but only around the corner to “Mad Harry’s”, where I did a little shopping for things I can’t get elsewhere in the country (including soft combs, necessary because of my thin or absent hair). Then it was around to Woolworths to do a little shopping and we were off. The first part of the drive was over familiar territory, as it was out to the gorges. As we neared the Namitjira monument, I spied my first brumby (almost at the same place I had first seen some ten years ago). He stayed still while I got close enough to take some good shots. We continued on to then arrive at Hermannsburg around 10:45. We had a good look over the historic precinct and even had scones with jam and cream there. It was getting on towards 1 when we finally left. Then we went off to Gosse Bluff and saw the remains of a meteorite crater. Finally we were back on the road (variously called the Mereenie Loop or Larapinta Drive) heading towards Kings Canyon. We saw at least two more groups of brumbies plus some very good scenery. Not long after stopping at a lookout the road became sealed again for the past ten kilometres into Kings Canyon Resort. We booked in, were allocated our room (2) and went down to unpack and settle in. After a cup of tea we went up to the sunset viewing area and saw the change in colour of the ranges as the sun set. I chatted briefly with a couple from Anglesea (he was in Lions – first and third Mondays of the month meetings) and a couple from near Gosford. After the sun set we went back to the room, had tea and I wrote up my blog and transferred the photos from today over and made room on the card for the photos tomorrow. I also did some puzzles out of the new magazines. Finally I went to sleep.

Day 55 – Alice Springs

Today dawned and I was up at 6:30. In the dorm I am in, there is only a skylight to indicate day, so I am slower to react than in the tent. After showering and dressing, I had breakfast and prepared myself to go out – I moved ARTIE around to public parking and then sorted out a few things. Just before 9 I headed off to the Flynn Memorial UC church – a long walk of around a few hundred metres. I entered as the musicians were practising. A lady from Sydney sat beside me and we spoke. I introduced myself to the minister, who remembered giving me communion in hospital and was happy to see me so well. He invited me to speak during the announcements (I should have warned him how long I can talk for). Then Jenny turned up, so we spoke a little and then the service started. I spoke but limited my time to a few minutes (for which everyone was grateful). After the service we had morning tea in Adelaide House. After a time I said goodbye to Jenny and excused myself. Just after I left I ran into Lynn who was returning from shopping. Back at the YHA Lynn prepared some lunch to take and I sorted out a few things with the car. We headed off and arrived at Serpentine Gorge and had our lunch and then spoke to a local who was walking the Larapinta Train in stages and was waiting for her ride home. We found out details on the current state of the Hermannsburg Mission area (the local community is now about 2000). Then we walked to Serpentine Gorge (very nice) and returned. We drove to Ellery Creek Big Hole and then walked down to see that – it was much bigger than I remembered (probably not dried out as much). There were a few foolhardy people (jumping in, ignoring the signs about no jumping – the risk of heat attack due to sudden hypothermia is high and people have died in the past). Then it was back into ARTIE and a drive back to Alice Springs, noting the alterations to the advisory signs – kangaroos skiing, horses with top hats and six legs, children wearing witch’s hats and glasses – and then being disappointed when the alterations stopped near to the town. I went to Woolworths Caltex to fill up – just under 170 litres and $215.20. We had tea at Hungry Jacks (no chance after this until Adelaide) and returned to the YHA. Here we booked for Kings Canyon (tomorrow night and the night after) and Ayers Rock (the following three nights). I did some more blog writing, chatted to a few people (including a young lady from the Netherlands [Arnhem]– who agreed their cycle and motoring arrangements are better than ours) and then went to bed. Our dorm is full again!

Day 54 – Alice Springs

I woke at 6:25, had my shower, dressed in “good” clothes and then had breakfast. Lynn got up later and started to do the washing. I headed off to post my magazine entries to Kerry after putting ARTIE in the public parking area, but along the way met a chap, Chris, who also wanted the post office. I walked him to there, then did some shopping at Jaycar and Mad Harry’s. I called into the Caltex Woolworths servo but found they didn’t stock magazines, so no discount for me when I fill up later. I got back to the YHA and chatted with Lynn and then with a Danish couple (who knew where Herning was!). At 12:15 we walked down to Piccolo’s where we had lunch with Fred and Mrs Fred (actually Lyn also). Fred was the person who visited me in hospital and also took me down to the bus station after I was discharged from hospital. It was a very enjoyable time. Then Lynn and I went out to Glen Helen gorge, Ormiston Gorge and the ochre pits. By then it was getting dark, so I drove back into the YHA – we’ll visit Serpentine gorge and Ellery Creek Big Hole tomorrow after I’ve been to church and caught up with Daphne’s friend Jenny. We had tea and chatted to a couple of German girls from Bad Kreuznach who will soon be driving up the east coast of Australia before going home after three months here. After writing up my blog, I posted it and finally went to bed.

Day 53 – Alice Springs

The Chinese curse may be “May you live in interesting times”, but for me it proved to be a blessing. After being woken by a roommate rising and cursing him because the mobile showed it was 4:38, I checked my watch and it was actually 6:08. I rose, had a shower and dressed and then had breakfast. Lynn was up soon after and had breakfast and we were soon off. The trek to the Visitor Information Centre was all of a few moments and about 50 metres, so I found out where I could obtain a permit for travelling the road to locate where I came to grief (Central Lands Council), a permit for the Mereenie Loop (there, on the day it was required or the day before) and I found out the Tanami Track was closed – then open, as it was posted just as the desk operator enquired. We did a little exploratory walk around the CBD and during this, I ran across the local police superintendent who assured me the two police I would like to thank personally were still stationed there. Then we set off to the Central Lands Council and got the permit and asked about Raymond, who I had been in hospital with. The girl on the desk couldn’t help, but her father, standing just behind me, knew him and gave me a community he was living in. He assured me it wasn’t a closed community and I could just go in and ask. We headed off there, and ran into Jaycar (which I thought had gone, as it wasn’t in its original location) and Lynn was able to get something I had shown her for charging four devices at once through USBs. She even got a senior’s discount (I don’t get that at home!). Then we located the community Raymond was supposed to be on, but couldn’t find him. We went out to Emily and Jesse Gap and I decided to head off to the RFDS then before doing anything else, and the people there recognised me. After the tour, I bought some T-shirts for Abby, Alex and Ted and found myself next to Sharon, the nurse who had come out to Yulara to help with my operation and then had visited me in hospital. We had lunch at Hungry Jacks and then it was back to the Central Lands Council to leave a card for the father of the girl on the desk to get in touch with Ray. Then we called in at the hospital, but I had less luck there. We went out to Flynn’s grave, then Simpson’s Gap (no rock wallabies) and finally back to the hostel. After unpacking more and having tea, I finished the puzzles, wrote up my blog, spoke to others and finally went to bed.

Day 52 – Elliot to Alice Springs

The timing of dawn meant that I didn’t wake until 6:30. Then it was up, shower, dress and pack up, hitting the road not long after 7:30. We stopped at Renner Springs for breakfast, then drove on through some showers and skies filled with ominous clouds. I stopped at the John Flynn monument near Three Ways, drove slowly through Tennant Creek, stopped at Wauchope (home of the UFOs), called in at Barrow Creek, stopped at Ti Tree, took photos at the Tropic of Capricorn and the highest point on the track (“It’s all downhill from here!”) and arrived in Alice Springs about 6. We stopped in at the YHA to book in and unpack (and were able to park in the staff spot next to the courtyard). We walked down towards Hungry Jacks, but the allure of $10 schnitzels at the Todd Tavern was too much, so we had tea there. On the way back we did some shopping at Woolworths and then got back to the hostel in time to retire to bed and try to get an early night. Unfortunately one tenant was having a tiff with his girlfriend back home, and with him yelling and her yelling (she was on speakerphone) I got up to tell him to move away and quieten down. He did and I went off to sleep. Unfortunately on my first waking, my iPod slipped done the side of the bed, landing on the floor under Lynn’s bed (I’m in the top bunk). So noises kept me awake a lot of the night (snoring, breathing, etc.).

Day 51 – Timber Creek to Elliot

No rain – and nearly everything was dry! After showering, dressing and having breakfast, we cleaned the rubbish off everything and were able to pack them back in their original containers. However, because of the time change and the length of the previous day, our leaving was at after 9, not at the usual around 8. It was different looking at features from the other direction, so there was still plenty to see. We stopped in Katherine about noon to shop, refuel (and wash ARTIE) and have a quick lunch at McDonalds (I didn’t want to lose any time). Then we were off and down the track, finally pulling up in Elliot to find a caravan park. Once the tent was up, we had a quick drink and snack and looked around the town, which was taken over by fruit bats! We thought about having tea at the pub, but that was decided by them not doing meals (despite a board being up). Back at the park we finished off our mixed grills, had an ice cream, I did my blog and recharged the computer and then it was off to bed.

Day 50 – Fitzroy Crossing to Timber Creek

The first sound when I woke was the loud sound of rain thrumming on the tent fly. The tent is waterproof (now proven) but we are not. After a shower, I drove down the street to get rubbish bags to put the wet tent in (if we decided to move on today) and then drove us over to the camp kitchen where we had breakfast and considered whether the Tanami Track would be open – I thought closed, given the weather radar overnight and now. Eventually Lynn noticed a break in the weather so we went back to break camp. It started raining before we finished packing up, but it was all inside and not too bad. We drove off on the Great Northern Highway to the accompaniment of heavy rain. Just before Halls Creek I saw the “ROAD CLOSED” sign on the Tanami Track, so the decision was out of my hands. We stopped in Halls Creek (sausage rolls were the only alternative available) and found ourselves sitting next to a family in the same predicament. As the trip from Fitzroy Crossing to Alice Springs had changed from 1600 km to 2400 km, it meant three long travel days. So the end point for today ended up at Timber Creek (6:40 WA time, but 8:10 NT time). While I didn’t like doing it, there was about two hours driving in the dark. At Timber Creek all was closed, so we found a spot and set the tent up. No rain, but in the dark it’s not as easy as during daylight. Just a light snack and drink and we were into bed and asleep.

Day 49 – Fitzroy Crossing

After a promising beginning (up for shower and cups of tea and breakfast in the camp kitchen), the day did not progress well. Firstly, after getting down to the Visitor Information Centre at 8:30 to get queries promptly answered and the day organised, it didn’t open until 9 (staff meeting on). I enquired about my book which I left there (a donation to their library in May 2012) but no record could be located (there had been break-ins and damage done as well as books stolen). I asked about the Indigenous boat tours in Geike gorge – not unless there were at least three, and no-one else had even enquired. I asked about the cave tours at Mimbi (too late today) but they were not doing them tomorrow. There is no booking for the DPaW tours – just turn up beforehand – but the afternoon ones were cancelled yesterday because of the heat. Things were unsatisfactory on all counts! However we did talk with a relative of the Krakouers (AFL Footballers) and some French tourists who were amazed where I had visited in France. We looked over the supermarket (doing a little shopping) and then drove out to the gorge – all was as I remembered it. After looking around we headed back into town, going via the old crossing (which I couldn’t find) and accidentally came across a wedge-tailed eagle sitting in a tree. After getting to some good photos, the eagle then flew away when I wanted to get ultra-close-up. We had lunch back at the tent and then did some 4WDing on our return to the gorge. There was no 2:30 DPaW tour advertised, but when we asked, it was on. Eventually they altered the sign to suit, as there were a few who would have driven away and come back at 4. We headed out on the tour together with about 14 others, but having done both tours now I would give the DPaW tour a guarded OK but the Indigenous tour an enthusiastic thumbs-up. During the tour it started to rain – an ominous sign. By the time we got back to the park, the rain was on and off. I helped one chap with erecting his waterproof over his ute tray and then another with undoing a bolt and nut which had held his spare on the caravan (the frame had broken). The rain then set in (although I hoped it would stop before the evening) and we headed down to the BP Roadhouse for tea – a mixed grill which was very nice and certainly value for money. Back at the tent it was was obvious the rain had set in, so we went to bed and crossed fingers it would stop well before the morning. During two comfort breaks overnight there was little precipitation, so I hoped.

Musings

I take quite a few photos but not too many of the countryside. The reason is that it changes so frequently and in so many ways I’d be forever stopping. Since Cairns the landscape has been savannah (hence the Savannah Way), but it has varied in the density, type and coverage of trees and grasses. It is necessary to keep an eye out as the changes can be over only a few hundred metres or extending for kilometres at a time. Driving is interesting. On sealed roads I try to keep to a maximum of 100 km/h as ARTIE, in common with all four-wheel-drive vehicles, is both inherently unstable and top-heavy. Passing trucks or towing cars I occasionally exceed this, but drop back in speed once I pull in. On unsealed roads I try to not exceed 80 km/h, but it is VERY interesting to see some four-wheel-drives overtake me – with or without trailers. I wish I had the dashcam set up so drivers could see the rear end of their vehicle bouncing around and often not keeping in contact with the road surface for many metres at a time! With trailers it’s even worse, as the trailer pulls the rear end of the towing vehicle around and where it points when it lands can be anyone’s guess – and it is rare for it to be in the direction of travel. We’ve seen a number of vehicles burned out or wrecked by the roadside, often on straight stretches of road, and I can see why. Also, the number of tyre carcasses (even with wheels still in them) is amazing, given that the roads are not that bad. In passing me, few drivers slow down and even fewer move completely to the left so that dust and stones are minimised (I now have a lot more stone chips from other vehicles throwing them up). And the comments on roads seem to illustrate that few drivers understand the nature of unsealed roads and even fewer learnt to drive on them – “atrocious” describes a few corrugations and “patches where it’s hard to retain control” describes sandy sections. Caravan parks are also interesting – fees have varied from $5 a night (Timber Creek) to the equivalent of $50 a night (El Questro) for the two of us. In general it has been around $15 each per night. Camp kitchens vary from a sink (cold water only) to stoves, microwaves, fridges, toasters, jugs and sandwich toasters. The variety of facilities is not related to cost! The one eye-opener has been showers – many are outfitted by the same company and they have a 150 mm clearance from the floor to the bottom of the wall. Consequently, a person in the next shower, with the shower running, reflects water up into a shower and wets the floor and even the shelves where clothes could otherwise be kept. If I’ve walked in with boots on, the whole floor then becomes muddy from the dust getting wet continually. To me, it’s poor design. As I need to dry my feet well and keep them clean, I have to devise strategies to overcome this (I have). Roadhouses and stores are also interesting. As a matter of principle I like to call into most and spend some money, as if they don’t make a profit, they may not remain open and be there when I or others need them. Some charge disproportionately while others, very remote and very small, charge very little different to cities. Some also have a diverse range of unique souvenirs, while others simply stock generic souvenirs. Where Woolworths and/or Coles are, the prices at all places are generally lower. Response to my pictures on ARTIE has been a lot better in rural areas than city areas. A few think I work for the RFDS and some ask if the picture was posed. Most are sympathetic to the RFDS and many already contribute. I haven’t got emails saying people have contributed to my Everyday Hero page, but I hope some will eventually. There are many families on the road – frequently away for months or years at a time. Some seek work along the way to finance their travels while some just eke out the money they put aside. Those with children usually run out of funds first, and miss out on attractions where a tour is the only way to see sights. When costs are $750 per adult and nearly $600 per child for a day, it would be hard to justify that expense when it would allow perhaps another month on the road. I am surprised at the number of grey nomads who will not pay a fee of a few dollars, seeking ways around it, yet have rigs which cost the other side of $200 000 not including the vehicle! But some backpackers (not all) have found ways to circumvent any security or anti-theft measures set up by councils, parks or attractions. Visitor Information Centres are so variable in quality – size is not a guide. With friendly staff, a wide display of information and pamphlets and souvenirs, both unique and varying in price, some centres are a pleasure to visit. Others lack information, space or friendly staff who know their area or are just resellers for local businesses. Attractions vary in value. Some cost a lot but give little (including thrills, pleasure and value for money) while others give back good value for money.

Day 48 – Broome to Fitzroy Crossing

This morning I was awake at 5:45 – not because of the anticipation of the day’s travels, but because one of our room was again back in and looking at his mobile with the brightness turned full up. Just before 6 I headed off for my shower, returning to dress and pack. Then I had breakfast, but again I didn’t want to leave too early because I would be driving into the rising sun. I did some puzzles, returned all the gear and we left just after 8. I filled up with diesel at Woolworths and then we headed out on the road. We stopped at the Roebuck Roadhouse (yet more souvenirs) and then at Willare (no more souvenirs there!). We travelled on through the drying landscape and arrived at Fitzroy Crossing just after 1. There was a new roadhouse open but otherwise it was similar to when I visited in 2012. We went over the Fitzroy River and booked into the Fitzroy Lodge Caravan Park. We selected an area with grass (a rarity) and shade (not too common). The tent now takes about 20 minutes from stopping to walking away (tarp down, tent up, fly on, pegs in, air mattresses in and all clothing and bedding placed). A quick exploration and a drink before sitting down for a few minutes, then Lynn went off to do the washing and I went down to the river for a few photos. I also found out the answer to a query about planting boab tree seeds. Then it was another drink and a sit-down after passing on some experience about the Gibb River Road and Tunnel Creek. I was surprised to find reception, so sent out a text and then got the laptop out and did today’s blog. Today is the first day when we are actually heading towards home. Although it’s still around 5000 kilometres to go, we’re not heading away from home which we had done for the first 47 days of this trip. After something light for tea, it was into bed and off to sleep.

Day 47 – Broome

Today was rising as usual and showering, dressing and breakfast. After breakfast we went out to the markets at the Courthouse. Although placed in exotic Broome, they were like any local markets, even down to the local school selling raffle tickets and touts selling things without paying stall fees. We did some shopping, but not much. Then we went to visit the Japanese and Chinese cemeteries – still an impressive sight! After that we drove down to the port, but couldn’t walk out due to work being done. Then we went to the fishing club and drove onto the beach there. It was only a short drive, so we went down to Cable Beach and ARTIE went along the beach for four kilometres and then four kilometres back. Then it was off to the Broome Museum, which has both grown and improved since I was there last. After nearly an hour and a half there, it was back to Coles for some shopping before returning to the YHA for lunch. I rang Abby but I wasn’t as interesting as pulling dress-ups out!

Day 46 – Broome (Cape Leveque)

Despite the noise and the interruptions to sleep, I got a good night’s sleep and was awake by 6. I got up and showered and dressed, then had breakfast and was soon joined by Lynn. We were off about 7:45 and I called around to the Woolworths servo – success! They had the mags in, so I filled ARTIE. Then we headed off to Cape Leveque. Lynn had heard horror stories of the road (backed up by comments from staff at the Visitor Information Centre) but I was convinced it wouldn’t be too bad. By 8 we were on the road up. After about 20 kilometres it changed to dirt, but after 97 kilometres of dirt and sand, it became sealed again. Our first visit was to the Beagle Bay church. Here we saw the little church and the altar – and Lynn met a new friend, who told us a little of the history of her tribe in the area. We headed off to One Arm Point, but were disappointed with what we initially saw, so turned around and went to Cape Leveque. Here we had lunch – the ubiquitous hamburger which can be served up in so many types of bread/buns and with so many fillings. The restaurant, shop and caravan park/resort are all run by Kooljamin (a local community). After lunch we walked around to see the swimming beach (a boardwalk leads to the beach with its own little café) and then down to see the main beach with its cliffs. Standing on the beach and looking out to the west, it is hard to imagine that the next stop is Africa! We left just before 3, expecting to be back to the YHA at Broome just on sunset. The unsealed road is a mixture of graded and scraped clay (good surface), clay and sand (good but often corrugated) and sand (deep and corrugated and soft), so the 97 kilometres took just under eighty minutes. We arrived back as predicted and then settled in, having no tea because of the size of lunch. Again it was blog and photo time, plus time for a chat to some others at the hostel. Sleep came fairly quickly once I was in bed, and it was earlier than most here.

Day 45 – Derby to Broome

I woke at the usual time and did the usual things, returning after my shower to find Lynn just waking. Down at breakfast I ate, then washed up and said farewell to the others who had also become regulars at that time. We broke camp (becoming expert at it now) and called in to pick up the food we had left in the fridge. In town I went to get the magazines at Woollies, but they weren’t in! We headed off to Broome, with sealed roads all the way and “Eat, Pray, Love” being read by the author to entertain us. It wasn’t long before we hit Broome – just after 11. We went to the Visitor Information Centre, but unlike Derby it was more aligned with selling products and tours rather than providing information – a disappointment. I drove around Broome, showing Lynn where the YHA was (no parking empty), the museum, the beaches, Chinatown and the shops and then Cable Beach and the other shops (a Woolworths Caltex, but the new magazines weren’t in yet!). Back at the YHA there was a spare spot, so I parked ARTIE and booked in, then Lynn booked in. I put perishables into the fridge and then we walked off to town. We had lunch in the Roeburn Hotel (“the Roey”) and then did some souvenir and other shopping on the way back to the YHA. Back at the YHA I wrote up my blog. Then, despite all the noise, I went to bed and soon fell asleep.

Day 44 – Derby

Today is the day for our Horizontal Falls flight! We were both up promptly and I showered, dressed and had breakfast. Lynn just showered and dressed, being a bit too excited to eat breakfast. We were down to the kitchen to wait for our 8:15 pickup by 7:45 and we weren’t the first! Needless to say, today as we were all older passengers, everyone was there by 8:05. The bus rocked up and we were all on – the driver looked both surprised and relieved. By 8:40 we were at the airport and, after both aircraft were refuelled, we had a briefing and then boarded our aircraft. Apparently we were loaded by weight, and I ended up next to the pilot, Nick. Soon after we were off and had a clear flight up to Talbot Bay (where the Horizontal Falls are). We were off the plane and got morning tea and then boarded the boat for our first of two runs through the falls. We did a few runs through the wider of the two falls and had to wait about 15-20 minutes before we could go through the narrower one. We did a few runs through that and then along the arm of the bay, and then back to the pontoon we were on to have another morning tea and a shark feeding demo. Then we were out on the boat for a ride up Cyclone Creek (a misnomer, as it is a safe anchorage during cyclones). We met the resident large crocodile (“Bruce”) and then returned for lunch. I decided to take the helicopter flight and Lynn came along too. We got great shots over the falls as well as the pontoons used and the countryside around. Back at the pontoon we went on a few more runs through the falls (I used a telephoto lens this time) and then it was back into the aircraft for our run back to Derby. Back at the camp we went down for a last milkshake and berries and returned to the camp feeling rather tired and exhilarated. We had different neighbours again and again they were – noisy! We went to bed early and were very soon to sleep despite the noise.

Day 43 – Derby

I was awake, showered and down for breakfast not long after 6:30. I chatted to one family from Tasmania who were stuck waiting for car parts. They had two children, both young, and couldn’t really do anything except go to the pool. While I was eating breakfast, another couple said they were in the same plight. It looks as though it is quite common and the reason for so many car repair companies in Derby. Later in the morning we went back to the Visitor Information Centre again and got yet more souvenirs – a somewhat subtle plot to spend more money. Lynn also got photographed against the boab tree she’s fallen in love with. We also drove out around the town and Lynn went to the post office. Again after lunch I chatted to those leaving for the Horizontal Falls flight – and yet again people arrived at the very deathknock, rather than being ready. I chatted to a couple who had done the falls, who we had originally seen in Kununurra. I went back to camp and noticed a front tyre nearly flat. I pumped it up and couldn’t heqar or see a leak, so took it around to Tyrepower. Fortunately I arrived there at a slack work time, so the tyre was off and into the trough – there was a pinhole just in the edge of the tread. After taking the tyre off, there was no damage so a tube was put in and all was okay. Then we went down to the Wharf Café and had a milkshake and berries. It was back to the camp, a bit of tea and then to bed – with yet a different lot of noisy neighbours!

Day 42 – Derby

I was up at 6 and showered, then dressed. The weather has been warm and cooled down overnight, but not sufficient for me to use my sleeping bag – just a sleeping sheet on the air mattress. I went down to the camp kitchen to have breakfast (they have a kettle there) and spoke to a few people before returning to clean my teeth. I walked around to the IGA to get some milk for breakfast for Lynn. I went to replace the number plate at the front and found I had forgotten nuts, so walked around to the Home Hardware to get them – cheaper than Mitre 10! Replaced the number plate, but found the spacers were larger than I thought, so I’ll have to get some 15 or 20 mm bolts. We went down to the Visitors Centre to get some souvenirs and find out about the naming of the King Leonard Ranges (named by John Forrest in 1879 after King Leopold II of Belgium) and also got the longer bolts. At the same time we went out to the Prison boab tree. Back at the park we had some lunch and then I went up to the kitchen and chatted to those about to leave on the Horizontal Falls flights. They left at around 2:15. After that I was talking to a few who were waiting for car repairs and did the magazine puzzles. Lynn chatted to a few when she came up. Then we went down to the wharf – Lynn had the Berry Delight and I had a thickshake. We spoke to a couple down there while having them. Then it was back to the park, tea and finally off to bed. Although our neighbours had left early in the morning, there were new neighbours before dark. Some neighbours can be noisy!

Day 41 – Winjana Gorge to Derby

Today was scheduled to be a short day, so of course not only were we up early, but breakfast was finished quickly (I had cups of tea on my JetBoil) and camp was broken better than ever before. We were on the road well before 8 and deposited our rubbish in the cage near the Gibb River Road. It was a good run along the road which became sealed quickly – then unsealed – and this kept up until not long out of Derby. The interesting thing is that “Ken” (my Hema SatNav) was telling me it would take until 9 in the evening to arrive at Derby, that I should turn back and it was going to take nearly 400 kilometres. I ignored his advice and followed the road signs. It was not long after 10 when we got into Derby. I bought bolts to fix ARTIE’s front number plate back on, but it was too hot to do it then. We called into the Visitor Information Centre and got some souvenirs and information. Suddenly all mobiles were working again. After a quick cruise of the town we booked into the larger caravan park. Our site was supposed to be shady (definition of shady, please), near the amenities (yes) and convenient (it was close to laundry and other things as well). After putting up the tent we went shopping at Woollies (better prices than the last few days – but only this week’s magazines ), came back and prepared lunch. I caught up with missed calls. Lynn did the washing and I inspected the camp kitchen facilities and met up with a few others – a group of whom were going on the Horizontal Falls Overnight flight. Back at camp we met neighbours and then went off just before dusk to see the sunset over the wharf and get fish (Lynn) and chips (Lynn and me) for tea. We ate them in a shelter there and chatted to a couple from Shepparton. We came back to camp, the washing was collected and things were put in order. I wrote up my blog and eventually went to bed.

Day 40 – Winjana Gorge

I woke to the (muted) animal alarm and we drank some water and then walked into the gorge. It was quite cool and the going was good. There were already crocodiles out and visible, but this was balanced out by walking along under bat colonies – screams, fluttering, flying (a bad move as eagles captured one each) and urine and guano dropping onto us. It took about and hour and an half and then we hit a ‘trail end” sign – due to quarantine. On the way back we walked more along the river sand and also saw a very large croc on his own – even after a photo I wasn’t sure if he was a freshie or saltie. We walked back to camp, had breakfast and I had a shower and dressed. I decided to walk back to get a better photo (I spoke to a ranger along the way) with the longer lens and found out he was a freshie. I spent the afternoon doing very little. Just before dusk we walked down to the large waterhole and waited – about 40 crocodiles were visible and, as it got darker, they all crept into the water. After dusk the bats flew out and some went down to the waterhole to drink. With darkness it was not easy to se what was happening, but there was the occasional splash and people (a large crowd was there) cheered as the bats escaped. Eventually we walked back, had some tea and went to bed. The evening was interesting as the toilet nearest to us was visited by a large green frog.

Day 39 – Mount Barnett Roadhouse to Winjana Gorge

I woke with the now usual animal alarm at 5:30 but didn’t rise until 6. Then it was a shower, dress and have breakfast before breaking camp. We didn’t want to be on the road too early because we had shopping to do at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and it didn’t open until 8. We arrived there a little early but it was soon open and we purchased the provisions we would need for the next few days (Derby is our next shopping place). Then we headed off onto the Gibb River Road and after a while did a turn into Adcock Gorge. We drove in and had a look, but decided against going the whole way. We proceeded on and got to Winjana Gorge in the early afternoon, paid our self-registration fees and then looked for a good campsite. We found one, set up camp, had some lunch and then headed off to Tunnel Creek. We arrived about 30 minutes later and walked in. The first part looked intimidating, but after getting in, the walking was quite easy – through water or on dry to wet sand (wet where other tourists had walked back). It took about 40 minutes to walk through the whole way, but it was worth it. Some younger fellows pointed out where they saw crocs’ eyes (but I didn’t see them myself). So it was then about dark when we got back to Winjana Gorge, too late to see the bat/croc interaction. We had a scratch tea and then went to bed.

Day 38 – Mount Barnett Roadhouse

I woke with Nature’s alarm clock at 5:30 and rose at 6 – otherwise there was no water pressure and no hot water. I went to the ablutions but still no water. It came on about 6:10, so then I had my shower. I had some drink and then headed off onto the Manning Gorge. I crossed the Rubicon (well, the waterhole) on a punt with two others and then walked with them along the walk. Conflicting information arose – different places said 1 ½ hours return and 1½ hours each way. As it turned out, 1½ hours each way was correct. I left at 6:45 and got there at 8:05. I didn’t walk all the way, but near enough. I returned after 10 minutes absorbing the scenery and photographing it. I was one of the first to return, so passed a few who wanted to know how far it was (as it turned out, I wasn’t far wrong). I got back to the waterhole at 9:10 (Lynn was in swimming) and was back at camp by 9:15. Later in the morning I drove up to get a hamburger for breakfast (very filling) and about noon drove up with Lynn for her lunch (also a hamburger). During the day I was drinking a lot, a quite a bit of water. A couple from the Variety Bash of WA drove in, but after talking to them, they didn’t know an ex-student of mine who is involved similarly. Lynn went back into the water and I spoke to a couple from Austria who have become addicted to visiting Australia (in the early evening he entertained the camp playing a saxophone). Then I spoke to a chap from Perth and his friend who had been studying drama in Sydney and was interested in motorcycles, owning a Honda 250 Spider. Back at the camp we spoke to neighbours who had the same tent and swapped ideas. We had some tea, I loaded up photos and wrote up my blog and later we were off to sleep.

Day 37 – El Questro to Mount Barnett Roadhouse

I was up at 5:30 again (noisy birds and plenty of light) to shower and dress. After breakfast we broke camp and were off by not long after 8. We called into Home Valley Station and got a drink. We caught up with the Kimberly Wild group again! It looks a nice place. We called into Ellenbrae and had scones, jam and cream. Here I found my front number plate was loose and only hanging on one screw, so I took it off rather than lose it. We set off again and passed the turnoff to Kalumburu – no water in the Mitchell Falls to speak of – and called in to see the Barnett Gorge. However, after the 3.5 km drive in, the walk to see anything was going to be over 1.5 km so the temperature decided we would not walk. We eventually arrived at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and had a pie and sausage roll for late lunch/early tea. We booked in for the night, drove down to the Manning gorge campground and set up camp. Then I sat and did my blog as the sun was setting. We had something light for tea, then went to bed – but not to sleep, as a tour group were loud and raucous. Eventually I dropped off and found someone else had told them to “shut up”!

Day 36 – El Questro

I woke early (5:30, with dawn) and showered and dressed. Lynn was quickly up and we left the campground after breakfast not long after. We headed off to Emma Gorge and started on the walk at 7:45. A lot of the walk was over difficult terrain, but it was indispersed with level sandy track. We reached point 9 by 9:15 and called it quits then. It was slower going back and we didn’t arrive until nearly 11. We were back at El Questro before noon and called in to get an icy pole – while speaking to another visitor he showed me my driving light on the left was loose. It had worn a hole and broken part of the aluminium bull bar away. We drove down to the campsite and I enlisted the aid of a fellow opposite to help me at dusk (too warm then, plus we were going out). We walked down to the reception area by 2 and were ready for our bus/gorge tour. By 2:25 we were off (bus excursion travellers were no-shows). By 2:50 we were on the cruise with Vinnie and Greg (an ex-Zimbabwean). The cruise was very slow with details of the flora and fauna, as well as the geography flowing smoothly as we went down the Chamberlain River. At a rock bar we had to stop and we fed archer fish and saw catfish and barramundi. During this time we got drinks and fruit nibbles. We returned to the bus and then got a view of the accommodation shown in the brochures – at $3000 per night! Back at the campsite I got my mat and tools out and then the fellow opposite and I removed the two driving lights (the other had broken the bull bar at the mount) and then stowed them inside. We had some tea and then went to bed after I had chatted to a French couple cycling around the country since March (they have a year) and a family from Carrum Downs (the husband does stairs and works at Werribee frequently).

Day 35 – Kunanurra to El Questro

WWe rose early – light and noise from other campers woke both of us not long after 5 and I was up not long before 5:30. After showering and dressing, I had breakfast, repacked ARTIE for travelling on roughish roads and then we broke camp. I wandered over to the kitchen to do some internet work (booking a flight, accommodation in Broome and checking up on friends. We finally left the park about 9:15, did some shopping in town and were off to El Questro by 9:30, after filling ARTIE at Shell. The drive along the Victoria Highway was uneventful. We turned off onto the Gibb River Road and soon after came across a lookout. The views were good and we had some morning tea there. We chatted to another couple (matching tops) but left soon after as it became crowded when another vehicle pulled up. We called into Emma Gorge but there was only the walk (a bit warm by then) and room accommodation. We went onto El Questro and ended up booking for two nights. After selecting a spot, we set up the tent, had some lunch and then by 1:30 headed off to Explosion Hole / Branko’s Lookout. The crossing over the Chamberlain River was a little rugged and the road didn’t improve after, so I turned around and we went to pigeon Hole Lookout. This gave stunning views over the Pentecost River to the north and the Chamberlain and Pentecost Rivers to the south. The road and the river crossings were a lot easier than the others. On the way back we spoke briefly to a vehicle travelling up there and told them of the stunning views. Back at camp we unwound a little, got an ice cream (had to go up as they melted even coming out of the shop) and finally back to camp about 4:40. Lynn went to do some washing (not much of an opportunity now for the next week). Currently plans are to be in Derby for Tuesday 23rd August as we’ve paid for a flight and boat ride over the Horizontal Falls on Wednesday 24th and I’ve already booked into the YHA in Broome for the evenings of 25 – 27 August. To give you an idea, since we entered the Territory, days have been very warm (32°C to 38°C) but evenings have been warm and muggy (if cloudy) or cool and dry (if the skies were clear). Generally the days have been cool until 9, then become warmer until sunset. We had some tea and then went to bed.

Day 34 – Kunanurra

I woke early – at dawn, after a few false attempts where people had started up engines, idled them and then headed out of the park with much noise and fanfare. The end result was I was dressed and starting breakfast by 6:30. Lynn was up later and eventually we headed off about 8:30 and went out to the Ivanhoe Crossing to get some photos so people will believe where I went (and Lynn can brag about going through the day before). After, we did a cruise of the town and then slowly headed out to Lake Argyle. With stops along the way and then a good look at the facilities there, we eventually got to the cruise about 11:50. A short bus ride and we were aboard the Silver Cobbler 2. The captain, Greg, took us around to a number of spots, pointing out history, geography, fauna and points of interest. We paused for lunch and then did a lot more, culminating in a swim with drinks in the lake – no, I didn’t. We returned about 6 and then got back to Kunanurra about 7 and had a hamburger for tea before getting ready for bed. A problem – no water in the park. The managers are aware of the problem, but two hours later it still hasn’t been fixed. I wrote up my blog and transferred photos (I have to use my music HD as I’ve run out of room on the photo HD – all 2 TB!

Day 33 – Kunanurra

I woke early because of the early dawn and tried to sleep in but couldn’t. So I got up, showered and dressed, then had breakfast and chatted to those around. Lynn got up later and had breakfast, then eventually we left to go to Mirima National Park – only a few minutes out of town and billed as a “mini Bungle Bungles”. It was good, with walks and views, but no coloured layers as in the Bungle Bungles. We went back to the camp for an early lunch, then headed off to Wyndham (not Werribee, but the real Wyndham). On the way we turned off to the Grotto, which turned out to be very good as a scenic interest, but of course no water. We didn’t walk the 300 steps to the bottom, just seeing it from the top. At Wyndham we were slowed down because the town was running the annual Wyndham Cup and raceday traffic slowed everything down. We went to the Five Rivers Lookout and it was still very good. I spoke to a guide who regularly travelled the Gibb River road – no problems, but little water in the Mitchell Falls. We came back via the Black Rock Falls, variously named as the Black Rock pool. As it happens, it is both! Very impressive! After getting back to the camp via the Ivanhoe crossing, I again made contact with a Liz, who is doing a charity ride (including supporting the RFDS). I met up with her and then returned to have tea and finally get to bed after doing a lot of fluid drinking – it has been warm and humid.

Day 32 – Timber Creek to Kunanurra

We were up reasonably early and showered and dressed, then had breakfast. No toaster, so it was a bit lighter than previous. Then we packed up the tent and found with the ground tarp it was far easier. We left about 8:30 and called into a few lookouts not far from Timber Creek. After that it was a very spectacular drive through ranges of mesas and differing ground cover, including many boabs. Many of the mesas looked like brick fences high on the range and some looked like castle remains. There were few places to safely pull over, so there aren’t photos of all we saw. At the border we had nothing to declare, so after a brief inspection we were off. It was funny leaving Timber creek at 8:30 and then arriving at Kunanurra at about 10:50! We called into the Information Centre, then chose to stay at the Kimberlyland Caravan Park. We get assigned our site, set up the tent (it was very warm)and had some lunch. I went into town to get the magazines – DISASTER! Their magazines don’t come in until MONDAY! We booked a Lake Argyle cruise for Sunday, did some other shopping and then went back to the camp where the afternoon was spent writing my blog, transferring photos, charging the camera battery (only having a 240 charger is a definite drawback) and charging the laptop (ditto!). Lynn did some writing and reading. We cooked some tea and we went to bed early and then to sleep.

Day 31 – Katherine to Timber Creek

We awoke early to get moving underway, but I didn’t want to leave too early in order to shop and refuel by the time the magazines were in. The first part went to plan – we left the park by just after 8:30 and did the fluid shop as Woolworths was open. I filled up and disaster struck – they don’t get the magazines until Friday, so I missed out on getting them AND the extra 4 cent discount (on 140 L it would have been considerable). However Lynn did remember we forgot to pack stuff we had left in the camp kitchen fridge, so we called in (it was on our way) and collected them. We were off! We passed the Katherine station but there was no train in, and we listened to a story while driving along, marvelling at the varied scenery by the roadside. One kangaroo was very lucky as he crossed the road just in front of us, with no warning at all. Then, before we knew it, we arrived in Timber Creek. Booking a site was easy – and only $5! We looked at a cruise in the late afternoon and booked that, making up the eight necessary for it to run. Then we had a drink in the front bar of Fogerty’s Hotel in Timber Creek, just so we could say we had. Back at the caravan park we selected a site, set up the tent and had a light lunch – we had to use up vegies before tomorrow as we will be crossing the border at a quarantine point into Western Australia. We sat and chatted to our current neighbours (who were going on the same cruise) and then headed down to catch the bus at 4. We called into the old Police Station museum before departing from the landing on Big Horse Creek. There were the eight of us, so it was very good. The cruise started off slowly, we had a look at Bradshaw Bridge from under and then we barrelled up the river. We saw a few crocs, mainly smallish ones, but the highlight was feeding a sea eagle and a kite from the pontoon we had a light tea on. On the way back we saw numerous wallabies and a croc or two. Once back at camp we changed and settled for bed – it was very warm so I didn’t use a sleeping bag, just a sheet. It was very quiet compared to other nights.

Day 30 – Katherine

After rising early, I dressed, had breakfast and then took ARTIE down to Katherine Smash Repairs to get the rear moulding flange and associated parts fitted. I arrived about 7:50 and before 8 I was walking back to the caravan park. Then I got the magazines and commenced doing the puzzles so I could send then back home. Effectively, after chatting, that took up the whole morning. Lynn went soaking in the hot springs, not far from the rear of the caravan park. I got a call by just before 12 saying ARTIE was ready. By 1 I had paid for the repair and picked him up. Back at the park we had lunch (Lynn was back from her trip to the hot springs and had chatted to a semi-local while in the water there). We then went into town – I shopped for a few things for the tent (a lantern to hang, a tarp for when things are dusty, a tow rope just in case and Bars Bugs, as the dirt on the windscreen was hard to move). Then I took ARTIE through the car wash at the Caltex servo – probably the best wash in the country – and he looked really clean after, so I took a few photos. Suddenly I became critical of those with any dirt on their car! I met Lynn, who had been doing some shopping, and we went back to the caravan park. Around 3 we leisurely headed off to the gorge via the station (the Gahn was in again), had an ice cream and then made our way down to the boat departure area. It looked like a good, small and quiet tour until a 6/7 class from Darwin on an excursion showed up just before we left. The cruise was good, with enough banter and information to keep most entertained. When we crossed into the second gorge, I noticed many improvements had been made since I last visited in 2006 – hand rails and concrete filling in gaps between the rocks. I found myself admonishing children, but not too loudly. The second gorge was very good and I remembered some of the features and the associated spiel. It was getting darker by the time we returned and we saw a number of wallabies while walking and then driving back to Katherine. We decided to get McDonalds on the way home (no Hungry Jacks – Katherine really must move into the 21st century!). Back at the park our neighbour was not playing his radio loudly, nor talking to himself loudly, but a transport over the road valiantly stood in and idled his diesel engine most of the night.

Day 29 – Katherine

We rose in a little more leisurely manner, showered and dressed, had breakfast and then I called in to pick the parts up – all good except one part was missing! I didn’t panic and we went up to the railway station – and lo and behold, the Ghan was in. The train supervisor was the same one who was on the Indian Pacific when I met it at Cook! We had a look at the carriages, walked along the train, got some brochures and got some information – the train was nearly full, except for some no-shows from Alice Springs. I got a call from an ex-colleague about being a referee, so arranged to take that call after 4. Then I spoke to a travelling couple photographing the train about the joys of train travel and received a message about the missing part being found. I called in to pick that up, then we went out to the gorge. We decided to book for tomorrow afternoon but looked around while we were there. On the way back to town we visited the museum – very informative and I met a couple from the RAAF – we all reminisced about the “good old days”. Back at the camp after a little shopping for lunch and we had lunch. Lynn put some washing on and I did my census form and then spoke to three motorcyclists in camps along from us. I received a call but it didn’t answer and I couldn’t call back, so I will tomorrow morning. Then we had tea and eventually retired to sleep.

Day 28 – Daly Waters to Katherine

We were up fairly early, had showers, dressed, had breakfast and broke camp by 8:10. We visited the Stuart Tree and the old Daly Waters airfield – it had a current light plane there. We then went back to the Stuart Highway and made our way north – we called into Gorrie Airfield, rather like the one Michael Caton called into in “Last Cab to Darwin”. Then we stopped in to the hotel at Larrimah – no stubby holders there, but Lynn ordered one. I had a pie and ice cream for morning tea. As we proceeded to Mataranka, I ran across an eagle – or rather, it flew into my grille, then bonnet, then windscreen. Eventually, within a few seconds, he fell to the left side of the road, off the road surface, and well into the gravel. I hope he survived! At around 11:30 we arrived at Mataranka and went through to the hot springs at Bitter Springs. We walked around and then Lynn went in for a swim. Two turtles were seen – one small (about 8 cm), the other larger (15 – 20 cm across). By 1 Lynn had had her fill and we moved on. Cutta Cutta caves was the next point we visited before arriving at Katherine. We called into the Visitor Information Centre at Katherine and got some brochures – the caravan park recommended to us didn’t come up on the SatNav, but neither did the address I found. It was back to paper maps. We found the park and booked in for three nights. Then I went down to the Toyota dealer – the parts were in, but they couldn’t fit them until next Tuesday! However I found a smash repairer willing to do a deal and they will be fitted on Wednesday morning. Then it was down to some shopping at Woolworths, set up camp and then prepare a late tea from new supplies. We spoke to those around us and I spoke to some German tourists who were on a Rotel tour. Lynn went to bed and I did some puzzles from the new magazines (old ones were posted to Kerry this afternoon) and went to bed around 9. The first part of sleep was punctuated by military jets flying over. After that, things settled down.

Day 27 – Borroloola to Daly Waters

I awoke fairly early – but unfortunately mattresses are now not as kind to me as my waterbed or even the air mattress I’m using in the tent. Once I’m awake, I feel uncomfortable and have to get up. I got up and had breakfast – still in my PJ, a rare treat. Lynn got up to shower and after I had finished breakfast, I had my shower, dressed and packed things up (clothing bag, computer, camera and pillow bag). We were on the road by about 8:30 and headed straight down to the local river to take some great shots from the river bed. Then it was off on the road to the Heartbreak Hotel. We had been told to drive in to the Lost City, but saw no signs or other information. We did see the McArthur River mine – it looked pretty big and was working today. Once we got to the Heartbreak Hotel our hearts were broken as the Irish backpacker on the bar said helicopter was the only way in, but it wasn’t operating until Tuesday (it’s Sunday today). I spoke to a Swiss motorcyclist (a welder) who was working his way around the world and thought he had enough money for nearly another year. Then we headed off, looking for signs – but there were none! We arrived at the Daly Waters pub about 1:20 and stopped at the red light. As it was permanently on, we went no further. We ordered some lunch and then booked a site for the night. The burger I had wasn’t as good as in 2006! Our site had en suites as amenities blocks – very swish! We spent the afternoon in the lounge of the hotel and chatted to many different people. We also drove back to have a look at the Highway Inn at the Borroloola turnoff and put 20 L of diesel in. Back at the Daly Waters pub, entertainment came on about 5:30 and we headed off, had some light tea and were in bed before 7. The night was punctuated by owls hunting and dogs barking at the owls.

Day 26 – Adel’s Grove to Borroloola

I woke up to get showered and dressed and have breakfast. We weren’t in too much of a rush as I didn’t want to leave early to avoid the rising sun in my eyes and also to arrive and fill up at Gregory Downs after they opened (10). The camp opposite us had a flat battery in their HiLux after running everything off the battery for a day and were looking for jumper leads – one of the things I didn’t pack as that was the reason I had two batteries. Eventually they found some and were jumpered to start. We packed up and were on the road before 9. It was a good run to Gregory Downs – except for seeing so many camped in the river bed despite express warnings against doing so – there was a free camping area just up from the pub! We got to the pub and – no diesel in the tanks! He was just starting to transfer a few thousand litres over, so we just had a drink in the pub. Then it was along the road back to Burketown until the turnoff to Doomadgee. The road was good and there were many eagles along the way – a few very large wedge-tails – but none were game enough to stay on the road to be photographed. We also saw a pig cleaning up some roadkill. At Doomadgee we went to get lunch – only chips and fish, the bakery was closed and nothing else available. I had chips and Lynn got herself lunch from the food on board. We arrived at Hells Gate just after 1. I had an ice cream and drink there and took a few photos and decided to head off for Borraloola, figuring that even with the dirt surface I’d be there well before sundown. Most of the road was reasonable, with a few corrugated sections and at least six creek crossings – all negotiated with care successfully. However the driving did take a little toll and so when we arrived in Borraloola we decided to take a cabin in the caravan park rather than set up. Of course, after we did, we then found there was no place to have tea in town. The only alternative was another 40 km on, so instead we settled on cheese on toast. I had ALDI signal so I sent texts and went online. I updated my blogs and photos, rang Fran, Jason and Vanda and tried to get my emails. Connection was very slow. Eventually I went to bed and to sleep.

Day 25 – Adel’s Grove

I woke – but not at the beginning of the day, rather only a few hours after I had gone to sleep. We had very noisy neighbours. After turning up the iPod in my ears I finally went back to sleep again. Then I did wake at the right time to get a shower, dress and have breakfast. Lynn got up in time to have her massage. The day was spent doing very little, apart from chatting with the doctor next door before she upped stakes and moved closer to her friends. I had both lunch at tea at the shack – perhaps the staff were getting sick of me by then! I did speak to a potato farmer from Gunns Plains in Tasmania and a farming couple from Clermont – Lindsey and Heather. It was amazing how many people knew others in common or knew areas in common. I also did some more walking along beside the creek, further downstream. We had tea at the shack again, our last meal there. Then we were back to the tent and went to bed early – but very soon our noisy neighbours were at it again – 5°C overnight in Brisbane was considered to be cold and I heard about it many times. Finally I fell asleep with the iPod up even further than last night.

Day 24 – Adel’s Grove

I woke up early, showered and dressed and then had breakfast in the camp kitchen. Breakfast is currently two large cups of tea (550 ml each) with Teddy Bear biscuits and then either toast, weetbix or something else – this morning it was sausages in bread. Lynn had a briefer breakfast and then we were ready by 8 to drive down to Lawn Hill to go on the cruise. The road down was surprisingly good, given its remoteness, the traffic and obvious infrequent maintenance. There were a few corrugations and some minor ruts, but nothing to write home about – so I didn’t! We were at the parking area by not long after 8:30 and recognised some cars from the camping area. Some must have gone on an earlier cruise, but some had been walking. None were canoeing because it was cool (less than 13°C). We walked around, familiarising ourselves with the area and finding where the cruises went from. By 9:15 the other cruise had come in and all the passengers for the 9:30 cruise were there, so we headed off. The boat is powered by an electric motor and carries about 10 people, plus driver. We headed downstream, then upstream for a lot longer than it initially seemed possible. The commentary was about the area, the geology, the gorges and the flora and fauna. The gorge has different microclimates on each side and contains some species not commonly found (one fern is here, a part of Indonesia and Hawaii). We saw tofu falls which build up, not erode down like rock falls. We didn’t return until well after 10:30, so we had a good trip. After visiting the facilities, we walked along to get another view of the falls – from above, it’s easier to see them as from river level, vegetation obscures them. We headed back to camp (it was getting warmer now) and had a little light lunch. I wrote up my blog and transferred today’s and yesterday’s pictures. I walked along the creek and saw a lot more of it – Lynn went into the swimming hole but only to paddle. The rest of the afternoon was spent just doing very little and chatting with a few people. I did transfer photos I had taken of our neighbours and a group opposite who had been paddling in the gorge. I had a massage in the afternoon and will have to wait a few days to see if it was successful. At least no ribs were broken, although the masseuse told me she could clearly see where the break was in my shoulder blade. We had tea at “The Shack”, the fish and chip shop. Then I went for a walk around the park to try to find the other amenities block. I had no luck and took a long time to return to find Lynn missing. However her chair and the chair of the lady next door was missing so I didn’t worry. I went to bed and later Lynn returned and she went to bed.

Day 23 – Burketown to Adel’s Grove

Despite the seemingly strong wind overnight and the ground being so hard I could only hammer some tent pegs in about 5 cm., nothing in the tent (or the tent itself) moved. I got up earlier and had my shower and dressed and then started breakfast in the very well-appointed camp kitchen. Lynn came over a little later and we finished breakfast, washed up and finally broke camp. I wasn’t in a hurry as I had promised to call back at the Shire offices and Lynn wanted to get some money out at the Post Office. I drove around to near the offices and Lynn bought rolls made up for lunch while I enquired about the census and the roads. A very helpful council officer ( ) found out I could do everything at the Roper Shire (either Borraloola or at Katherine) and also told me of the road conditions – from Burketown to Adel’s Grove (relatively good) and from Burketown to Doomadgee (relatively bad). So I’ve decided I’ll go back to the main road to continue on after Lawn Hill. I met Lynn at the car and we went to the store and Post Office. The store didn’t have much (but there were two classes, total around 24, at the school) but the Post Office had a lot. I was able to buy a sticker from Burketown there and they had a lot of general supplies. I posted off magazine entries for Kerry. We chatted with some ringers from Mt Isa. Lynn got her money and we set off. The first part of the road was very good. However my Hema SatNav couldn’t find Adel’s Grove, so I started up my old one and then went to 4WD on the Hema. Surprisingly, it worked very well. The scenery along the way was very good, with examples of all types of vegetation, and we saw many eagles (some in flocks, but none remained on road kill long enough for a good photo), some kangaroos and even a family of emus (dad with about six chicks). The road was still bitumen but cut up where mine traffic used it, and was a little better after it became unsealed beyond the mine turnoff. We arrived at Adel’s Grove before 1 and found it to be a little oasis in the middle of nowhere. I booked in for three nights, Lynn booked for a cruise tomorrow and then we selected a site – near a little waterfall, relatively isolated and next to a couple from the Netherlands we had met at Cobbold. We settled in, got the tent up, ate the rolls we had and explored the little walks around the camp. It’s very peaceful. I signed up for a massage tomorrow and Lynn for a massage the day after. I did some reading and puzzles, then we bought tea (chips and potato cake for me) from “The Shack”, a fish and chip shop sharing the camp kitchen structure. I did many more puzzles from the magazines (I want to be able to post them in Borraloola) and eventually went to bed about 8 and to sleep – Lynn had retired earlier.

Day 22 – Normanton to Burketown

I woke early and got ready for my shower, ran the water for about ten minutes and got a warm shower – but I was left in the dark. After I got out and it was light, I looked around, found the local board in the kitchen and reset the circuit breaker – so all was right for Lynn to have a shower. We had breakfast near the kitchen in the company of a family camped near us – a father and two boys (6 and 9). They were from Woollongong and mum, a primary teacher, was home. We broke camp slowly and got a call back from the Burketown Caravan Park – only one site tonight, powered, so I took it. After we broke camp I rang Katherine Toyota and ordered the parts to fix the rear. I told him I wouldn’t be in until next late week. We left before 9, decided no more shopping was needed and headed out of town. The SatNav wanted me to go a roundabout route double the distance, so I just followed the signs. The scenery was interesting and varied. We went down to Burke and Wills 119 Camp and on the walk out chatted to the driver and cook for a tour company. They go Cairns to Darwin, pick up another lot and then go Darwin to Cairns. I took some photos at Little Boneyo Creek – it was larger than the actual creek – and lost my handkerchief there! It was blown out of my pocket. Soon we came across the Leichardt River. I took some photos in the river bed crossing, then we went up to the views over where the Leichardt Falls would be in the wet. Very nice scenery in what was part of the river bed. We then arrived in Burke about 1:30 and decided to have lunch at the pub. After that I booked in at the caravan park, we put the tent up (hard ground – the pegs only went in a few centimetres) and then visited the Information Centre. Most of it was about the local Lands Council and their activities – very interesting. I also enquired about the census – the local council have forms but couldn’t give them to us, but I was assured we could get them at Borroloola. The officer in charge at the Information Centre was just looking up the fines for not filling in the census, but making it online has made it difficult for those with no Internet access or those travelling. We travelled out to the moorings and ramp on the Albert River, then had a look at the Works and Landsborough Tree on the way back into town. I did some of the puzzles (which have to be back soon, so I hope Australia Post does its job), got some tea ready, started the laptop and the camera battery charging (I’m paying for power, so I might as well use it) and then transferred the photos over and cleared part of the card in the camera so I can take more over the next few days. Currently the plan is to go to Adel’s Grove, stay there for up to three nights and then return via Gregory Downs to get the maximum sealed road. We have enough to do until the parts get replaced at Katherine, so I’d rather less dirt gets in. Lynn went to bed fairly early, but I stayed up to do this blog and finish the photo transfer and battery charging (I won’t leave the cables out in the open overnight). I chatted to a chap who worked for those who had contracted the optic fibre cable from Burketown to Doomadgee – they installed by ripping the soil and then planting it 1.2 m down with a plough. Then it was off to sleep with everything charged and

Day 21 – Normanton

I arose refreshed and ready to face the day – Lynn apparently was not. Dogs and snorers had kept her awake. I had my shower (it did take over ten minutes to get hot water – it’s artesian) but Lynn only had a partial shower – too cold. We had some breakfast – toast and tea for me – and Lynn did the washing and hung it out after breakfast. We headed down to the railway station and found a long queue. There was enough room for everyone, fortunately. We sat in the middle carriage on the way down to Critter’s Camp and in the driving car, immediately behind the driver, on the way back. The line is set on pressed or forged steel sleepers which are placed directly on the ground, to minimise flood damage. The motive power is a Gardiner six cylinder diesel driven through a crash four-speed gearbox. We left at 8:30 and arrived there about 9:15. The entire first carriage then got onto a bus for their tour and the rest of us returned. I asked station staff and found out where to get the magazines – so went down and got them. Then we were off to Karumba – a pleasant drive of around 50 minutes. We got pies for lunch, then investigated the Visitors’ Centre – and had a chat about how to make the region look more attractive to visitors. We went out to the point, met a couple there who we had met at Cubbold Gorge and took some photos. Then we drove back through the town and looked at places of interest – there were quite a few of them. I took some photos and looked at MMG – an Australian-Chinese mid-tier base metal mining company. We drove back to Normanton and I tried to ring Katherine Toyota – no luck. I tried a panel beaters – no luck. The Visitor Information Centre found out it was a holiday in Katherine – just my luck! Then I tried to book in at Adel’s Grove – no reply! Bad luck is mine today. We went to a store and Lynn shopped and I filled ARTIE with fuel – at 139 ¢ per litre, the dearest yet. We returned to the park and while Lynn got the washing in, I tried to connect to the Internet – no luck with my Aldi mobile, so I had to use my Optus (aghh, the cost!). Then I tried to connect to the census (the park owner knew nothing yet) and was told I couldn’t, and should ring. I rang and got told the lines were busy and then I got hung up on. Eventually I got through to the website and found - Staying in other accommodation For those staying at an accommodation service such as a hotel, serviced apartment, hostel or caravan park, your accommodation service provider will give you a form when you arrive. Travelling in remote areas Special Field Officers will be found at certain locations in remote areas such as truck stops and caravan parks. They will provide you with a Census form or information on how to complete the Census online. If you are travelling and staying in remote parts of Australia on Census night, and do not receive a Census form from a dedicated pick-up location, please contact the Census Inquiry Service (http://help.census.abs.gov.au/help/popquestions?gclid=CjwKEAjww_a8BRDB-O-OqZb_vRASJAA9yrc5JUTpKbSonp1Rdw_dUCb3S6hvq7i9AOplzlNA-NXUXBoCuzfw_wcB#backto). So we don’t have to worry – it would have been good if people knew. I had to put the laptop on to charge as it was down to 10%. As it was charging in the kitchen, I had to take it off once we were going to bed.

Day 20 – Cobbold to Normanton

I got up at 6:20 as there was enough light to see and showered and dressed. Then we had breakfast at the barbecue centre just up from the camp kitchen. We packed up at a leisurely rate as I didn’t want to leave too early – before 8:30 and the sun would be in my eyes driving. So not long after 8:30 we were off and had a good drive into Forsayth – I photographed some cattle and some signs to others may appreciate what it actually is. The road from Forsayth to Georgetown is partly sealed and the unsealed section again was not too bad. Then we were up to Georgetown, where the southern town entrance has a beautiful lookout and garden, together with a mural on the water tank. We drove through Georgetown, but there was no immediate appeal so we pressed on to Croydon. We pulled in at the Information Centre, had a look and watched a short film about the history of the area (alas, spoiled for me as some tourists brought their dog in with them and I quickly had shortness of breath). We did a quick drive around the historic precinct (worthy of at least another visit), tried the pub for lunch (no meals during the day on Sundays) and ended up having chips at the café. At the same time I booked the trip on the GulfLander to Critters’ Corner. Then it was on to Normanton and Lynn had to look out for the stop at Critters’ Corner – it is about 30 km by road from Normanton. When we arrived at Normanton (about 3), plan A was the Tourist Park, plan B was another park in town (there are two others), plan C was to go back to Leichhart Lagoon and plan D was to go back to Croydon (if there was no other accommodation available). As it turned out, there was room at the inn, so we selected a shady spot and set up the tent. Then we did a quick drive around, looked at the town (nothing much open), found a shady spot on the old road, but now pedestrian, bridge and then went back to town. Lynn wanted to do a pub crawl, so we started with the Albion. Our drinks there were accompanied by a singer and guitarist. Then Lynn hit the Purple Pub while I got some drinks at the supermarket. After that we had some time with Krys – Lynn with her head in its mouth (I need to get one with me). Back at the park I returned some calls and Lynn returned some of hers and the temperature gradually cooled from the 32°C it was during the day. We had some tea and then were to bed by about 8:20.

Day 19 – Cobbold

Snoring – I think the world championship for the loudest snorers goes to those around us. It was a co-ordinated symphony, with one taking up in the gap(s) left by the others. Even the iPod had to be at a high volume to drown them out, but as I’m listening to audio books, the pauses were all punctuated by snores or other loud sleeping sounds. Finally we were up by before 7, showered, dressed, had a leisurely breakfast and were then well and truly ready at 9:30 for the 10 tour. A family travelling together (13 – grandparents and two sibling families) took one bus and the rest of us took the other. Our group split into two and ours was the first to traverse the gorge. I was very interesting, with a different patter to last time and at least two crocs visible, one of which I was able to photograph. We had a view of the tourists in the first group, up the top. Then we walked and got a similar spiel to last time, but more on the aboriginal and European history and less of the geological history. Lynn walked all except the last section. Part of the way I chatted to the husband of a café owner from Ingham about promoting towns. We got back to the centre about 1:15, had a light lunch and Lynn eventually went for a swim – I chatted to a pie maker (retired) whose brother agists cattle on Robin Hood Station, from which Cobbold Gorge is taken. Returning to our camp, we found the couple from Orange were now our neighbours. We spent a little more time at the café, which in reality is the social centre and also bought some souvenirs. I showed Lynn where I had stayed when visiting on SUZI. Then later we went back to have an early tea and finally got to bed by 7:30, hoping we could sleep because most of the snorers had left – but alas, their places were taken by even more ardent noisemakers! I retaliated by turning up my iPod, but with the volume up I flattened it by 4 a.m., so the last two hours were spent listening to a louder and more orchestrated snoring performance.

Day 18 – Undara to Cobbold

We were up at just after dawn – our usual time now – and showered, dressed, had breakfast, packed everything up and said farewell to Warren and Joy (who had been behind us) and the family from Bendigo who had been beside us. We left the park at not long after 8 and headed west along the Gilf Development Road. We turned south along the turnoff to Einasleigh and were straight away onto unsealed roads with many creek crossings and quite a few corrugations. All was well as I tackled it at around 60 km/h, slowing for the crossings (no water). About 20 minutes into it, I ran across a tourist minibus (20 seater) stopped in the middle of the road. I went around him, but a few minutes later he caught up to me, witht eh rear end of the bus (and presumably the passengers) bouncing around quite a bit. I pulled over to let him pass and then matched my speed to his so I didn’t get much dust. About 9:50 we got to Einasleigh and went straight to Copperfield Gorge (a mere minute’s drive away from the pub). I walked a bit up and down the gorge and Lynn meditated for a time. I met and chatted to a retired couple from Orange (NSW) about the geology of the gorge. We compared travelling noted and our time at Cobbold would overlap. Lynn had met a lady staying at the pub who was catching the Savannahlander back to Cairns (via Chillago). That day she was travelling to Mount Surprise to stay at the Bedrock Caravan Park. We Had a drink (sarsaparilla for me) at the pub and headed off. Just as we were leaving Einasleigh, we saw the Savannahlander in the distance so stopped to take photos (everyone waved). The pub was supplying 66 lunches (later revised to 72 by someone we met at Cubbold). Then we were off to Forsayth, following parts of the train tracks. Some of the road was unsealed but it was generally it good condition. At Forsayth we had lunch at the pub (just cheese and ham toasted sandwiches) and chatted to a couple whose husband had just been treated by the nurses at the Health Centre there for an eye problem. We then headed off to Cobbold gorge and arrived around 2. I booked in and paid for the campsite and the tour – and found Kellie at the desk remembered me – not too many older people riding motorbikes come through there. We set the tent up (getting used to it now) and commented that it was filling up, and then two vans came in and there was no room! We headed up to the café area and booked in for tea, then chatted to people coming along or returning from tours. We had a look at souvenirs available and I checked through to see when I had been there last – 5/5/2015! Eventually we had tea at the restaurant (rump steak – very good but no chips – they had run out) and were back and in bed by about 8:30.

Day 17 – Undara

We woke refreshed, although Lynn had not had too good a night. The first problem was to find the laundry – we did that after we’d had showers and dressed. Lynn put the washing on while I dropped the wheel and tyre off at the office. Rather than have the skirt bounce around or get stepped on, I put it back on. After the washing was finished and hung, we headed off to Undara. All went well until there was a little noise and I saw the skirt heading off backwards into the scrub. I stopped and we looked for it, but no luck. We pressed on to Undara, arriving before 10 for our 10:30 tour. I showed Lynn around a little and before long, we were off. 21 of us, with a guide, in a bus, drove to the beginning of the walk to the tubes. The explanation goes through the geological and the settlement history of the area. Finally we walked down the boardwalks to the tubes and the process of their creation was explained. We saw two tubes. After, back at the centre, we had a leisurely lunch and then headed back to Mount Surprise. At the area I had set (on a SatNav) for the loss of the skirt, we slowed and we both looked hard on the roadside. We found – plastic bottles, plastic wrap, guide posts, trees and plenty of other rubbish, but no skirt. After five kilometres of very slow travel on the verge on the wrong side and having success at finding everything else, I called it off. We returned to the park and the tyre was changed – we put it back on and Joe requested a donation for the staff fund, which I was very happy to give. After discussion, I will ring Katherine from Normanton to find either a Toyota dealer or a panelbeater to replace the skirt and correct any other damage. We returned to the site, Lynn collected the washing and I wrote up my blog. We had a cold tea and then retired to bed early.

Day 16 – Cairns to Mt Surprise

The day started very well with me getting up, showering and dressing and going out without Toby rising. We had our pancakes for breakfast, then went over to the shops – too early, no entrances open. We returned and packed the car. Key cards were returned and finally I drove out, ready to go, but the shopping centre was open and so we popped in to do the final shopping before the next section of our trip. We were out before the meters were operating, so it was a brief visit. On the way out I filled up at Shell with a 4cent docket and they had the other magazine – success! We called in to the SkyRail terminal for Lynn to get some souvenirs (they would have had to be carted up to and back from Kuranda otherwise). All was going well as we headed up the scenic drive to Kuranda – until at just before 9 we ground to a halt. About ten minutes later two ambulances, two police cars and two fire rescue appliances went past on the wrong side of the road – no other way up! A few minutes later two tow trucks followed. Just after 9:30 everything started to come down. By 9:45 we were all on our way. We saw a different side of Kuranda from the road. Our next destination was Mareeba, a lot larger town that suggested – we drove through it and back. Then we went to Atherton, where we had an early light lunch after visiting the Information Centre. We diverted from the highway to see Ravenshoe, highlighted by the many shoes nailed to bollards in the main street and the highest hotel in Queensland. We went on through Mt Garnet (cheap fuel) and Innot Springs. We passed the turnoff to Undara and then – disaster! The left rear tyre delaminated and the tread came off and took the rear skirt, air box and connectors off. I slowed down gradually but the road had no shoulder. I stopped as far to the left as possible, and started to get everything ready to change wheels. A following car (teacher and groundsman from a Western Australian school, touring with their children) stopped and provided cover as the husband and I changed the wheel. Lynn went back to collect the air box and skirt. I put the air box back but the skirt was more difficult (it was damaged and connectors were missing). Finally I got it on and we drove on. We arrived at Mount Surprise and checked in at the caravan park after looking around the town for tyres or mechanics – NONE! Plan A was to see if there was a source in the town and Plan B was to return to Mt Garnet to get a tyre. The owner of the caravan park had been a mechanic, so his wife said he’d look to see it there was a tyre. But when we got to our site, the adjoining site also had a Prado and the owner wanted to get rid of a tyre as he was no longer off-roading. So it was arranged that Jo (not Joe) of the caravan park would change it tomorrow while we were off at Undara. I cooked the left-over steak and all the sausages I had bought, we had tea and soon after we were in bed and asleep.